Three Sauces in Oaxaca

Words and Photos by Briana Olson​

Oaxaca de Juarez, nestled in the foothills of the Sierra Madre in the Mexican state of Oaxaca, is known to some for its colonial architecture, to others for its mezcal. Of the city’s official contributions to global patrimony, its cuisine may have the most diverse roots and the longest history. For the sauce enthusiast, this elegant capital city offers infinite possibilities for bliss—not least, but far from only, its moles. Here, in no particular order, are three.

Mesquite-smoked beet salad and five moles at Los Danzantes.

Los Danzantes: Miel de Chilhuacle Negro

Named for the dancing figures carved into the walls at nearby Monte Alban, Los Danzantes plays hard with traditional dishes and regional ingredients—some sourced from their garden, all treated with reverence. Helmed by Chef Alex Burgos, the modernist kitchen produces five exceptional house moles, offered as a starter with a basket of plantain chochoyotes. Many of the dishes, like the huitlacoche-stuffed ancho with pumpkin puree, are not only beautiful but utterly unique. In one, identified on the menu as a salad, numerous sauce components—fresh cheese infused with hoja santa, local coffee emulsion, honey seasoned with the earthy chilhuacle negro chile—intersect with the sweet umami of mesquite-smoked beets. With towering earthen walls embracing the dining room and a bar made with recycled metal, the restaurant’s atmosphere (and service) matches its culinary sensibility and commitment to Slow Food.

Memelas at Doña Vale.

Doña Vale: Salsa Morita

Memelas are available all over Oaxaca, but they are perhaps best eaten at the markets. At the sprawling Central de Abastos, where locals shop for everything from kitchenware to T-shirts, food vendors can be found among the sea of produce dealers—I found one serving wonderful blue corn memelas with beans and salsa verde near stacked bundles of cilantro—as well as in the market’s somewhat byzantine food court area. Tucked in a corner is Doña Vale of Netflix fame. Her popular salsa morita is earthy and beautiful, but the tomato-based salsa roja is also excellent. Numerous groups offer food tours of this truly vast market.

El Escapulario: Estofado Verde

Outside Mexico, estofado is a lesser-known mole, but it is beloved in Oaxaca. Sometimes called mole almendrado, it is lighter, sweeter, and more delicate than mole negro. Of those I’ve tasted, the most distinctive was prepared by Chef Esther “Teté” Alonso. El Escapulario was recommended as a counterpoint to the city’s newer, hipper fine dining establishments; Doña Teté, I’d been told, comes from the generations of women chefs whose cooking first made the city a culinary destination. Her menu proves that there are well more than seven moles of Oaxaca. The estofado verde marries the salty umami of olives and capers with the acidity of tomatillos and the sweetness of almonds and raisins. Alonso, who serves guests herself, has been known to offer a mezcal digestif, on the house.