Words and Photos by Stephanie Cameron
Rumor has it that Portland, Maine, has more restaurants per capita than any other city in the United States besides San Francisco. Although there isn’t enough data to back that up, just by walking the streets, it sure feels true. From a flight of sauce with my duck-fat fries at the infamous Duck Fat to the flavor bomb chicken at Crispy Gài and all the seafood in between, I ate my way through the city for five days and didn’t even scratch the surface. And it’s definitely fair to say, “When in Maine, eat lobster daily”—especially when it is lobster season!
HighRoller Lobster Co., Lobster Roll Flight
If David Chang owned a lobster roll restaurant, Highroller would be it. The space is lively and designed with bold splashes of red integrated with an old-school diner vibe, and large, saucy food photos fill an entire wall. Their local beer list runs deep, and the creative spins on the menu make it clear why people line up for lunch and dinner here. I went with the customizable lobster roll flight, called Beggahs CAN Be Choosahs, which in my case included three mini rolls served Connecticut style (meaning warm, versus Maine style, served cold) and sauced, respectively, with charred pineapple mayo, jalapeño mayo, and lobster ghee.
J’s Oyster, Lobster Stew
If you want to hang with the locals, J’s Oyster is the place. With a huge bar dotted with a handful of tables and a loud and boisterous crowd, you are sure someone is going to yell “Norm!” when the door opens. I sat at the far end of the bar with a straight shot into the tiny kitchen and had good access to the bartender. The menu is full of fresh seafood options, and I could have gone so many ways, but the lobster stew beckoned. I will say—it was out of this world!
Mr. Tuna, Lobster Hand Roll
It was tuna season when I was in Portland, so a stop at Mr. Tuna was a must. Notably, they’ve created expertise in local bluefin, and with their “halfie hour,” they are a great spot to grab a local brew and a sushi roll before heading to dinner at their sister restaurant, Bar Futo. I, of course, had to try a Maine lobster hand roll with avocado, shiso, and sudachi mayo in addition to my spicy tuna hand roll with umeboshi, cucumber, and tempura flakes.
Lobster Shack, Steamed Lobster
Cape Elizabeth is the quintessential “must do” when in Maine. A twenty-minute drive from Portland through one tiny town after another landed me at the most magnificent view of the Atlantic Ocean and the Lobster Shack. Open since the 1920s, they keep it simple with plates, boats, and sandwiches, all made with freshly caught seafood. I went with the lobster dinner, and as I placed my order at the counter, I watched with fascination as they fished out a live lobster and dropped it into a pot to steam. Sitting at a bright red picnic table, the same color as my lobster, soaking in the sun and sea air, I knew I was in a place like no other on this planet.
Stephanie Cameron was raised in Albuquerque and earned a degree in fine arts at the University of New Mexico. She is the art director, head photographer, recipe tester, marketing guru, publisher, and owner of edible New Mexico and The Bite.
