Izzy’s Road Trip

Words and Photos by Israel Rivera

In the early years of The Shop (my restaurant), things weren’t exactly going well. Stacks of bills were piling up, issues long neglected started coming back around, and the pressure of a struggling business was becoming too much to bear. As anyone who owns a small business can tell you, the stress is real. I couldn’t breathe right; I had fainting spells, massive anxiety, tightening muscles; my vision was going blurry. I saw four doctors in three months, and, lastly, visited the eye doc. After telling me that my eyes were perfectly fine, she finally asked me, “Are you under a lot of stress?” It’s almost like my entire body was waiting for someone to ask this because before I could even consider an answer, it just fell out of my mouth. “Yeah, I guess you could say that.” After consulting the only person I could think of who would understand, my pops, in all his wisdom and with the experience of having done hard manual labor his entire life, forced me to take a couple of days off, go to Truth or Consequences, and soak in the hot springs. It’s one of the best gifts my dad has ever given me—not only permission to take care of myself for once but the realization that it was my responsibility to do so. So let’s do that again, shall we? (The taking care of oneself, not the whole debilitating stress thing.)

T or C is only a two-hour drive from Albuquerque, so pack some sunscreen, a few bottles of water, some comfy shoes, and let’s roll.

Stop #1 Tomé Todo

Technically, our first stop is for fuel: gas, obviously, and snacks too. But not long after, realizing I haven’t eaten yet and not wanting to have truck-stop gummy bears and soda for breakfast, I decide to pull off for a proper meal. Located about thirty miles south of ABQ is the itty-bitty town of Tome, nestled right up between Los Lunas and Belen. Here you’ll find a family-owned food truck called Tomé Todo, which translates to “take everything.” Burgers, tortas, tacos, burritos, quesadillas, flautas, and sides, all cooked up in the style of northern Mexico. The menu has about thirty-five options—take everything indeed. I decided on the breakfast burrito with chorizo, a side of chile cheese fries, and something called a chirrisqueños, which is like a quesadilla with beef, lettuce, tomato, cheese, and guacamole stuffed between two corn tortillas. This truck also has its own little dining area with picnic tables and umbrellas. On this cool, sunny day, I couldn’t think of a better place to start.

Tomé Todo | 3077 Highway 47, 505-397-8214

Stop #2 San Lorenzo Canyon

About an hour’s drive south from Tomé Todo on I-25, you’ll see the exit for San Acacia at marker 163. That’s easy enough to find. From there, like the directions you received before the days of Google Maps (if only the app could be so accurate), it goes a little something like this: “Upon exiting at 163, take a left onto the bridge, then an immediate right onto the frontage road. Drive past three underpasses and turn right into the fourth. There is a sign that says ‘San Lorenzo Canyon Ahead,’ but don’t be fooled; make a right onto the dirt road heading west, under the freeway. Once you pass the cattle guard, you’re on the right track. Stay on the main wash for about fifteen minutes.” Some five miles down a bumpy, sandy road, you are greeted with breathtaking views of the entryway to San Lorenzo Canyon. I’d never been here before, and I’m kicking myself as I pull up because it’s so beautiful—it’s worlds away, and yet it’s really not that far from where I live. You can drive right up and step out into some of the coolest landscapes you’ve ever seen, no hiking required. But once you start wandering, you’ll find it hard to stop, so grab a bottle of water first. The gorgeous views are around every bend and into every crevice; one could truly spend all day here.

This place is wonderful and awe-inspiring. I don’t really understand it, but then again, I don’t have to. I just know it’s special. Taking it all in as I walk around, not trying to understand, just appreciating the raw beauty and peace I find here, I can feel myself begin to fall away from all those real-world “problems” that weigh so heavily on us all. As I turn around and head back to the truck, I feel physically lighter on my feet, my shoulders ache just a little less, and I’m ready to keep on.

Stop #3 Mineral Museum

Another thirty or forty minutes south and you’re in Socorro, where you’ll find the Mineral Museum, located on the New Mexico Institute of Mining and Technology campus. I know, you’re thinking, “Who is this dork?” Spoiler alert, I LOVE museums, and what better time than now to educate oneself with knowledge of the sciences? Also, my partner just happens to be one of those people who really likes rocks, the kind who’s always randomly pulling out rocks from her pockets that she picked up because she thinks either they look really cool, feel really cool, or both. So this stop is for both of us, and it’s free, so do it—it’s way more fun than it sounds.

Stop #4 Buckhorn Tavern

Yep, that one. This San Antonio establishment has been in many a magazine and even on the Food Network. According to its sign, it’s rated #7 in America for its green chile cheeseburger. By whom? I have no idea, but it looks legit from the outside, so why not?

As you walk in, you see exactly what you’d expect of a tavern. Wooden floors worn pale from decades of diners walking through, a wood-paneled bar and wood-paneled walls, amply lit with stained glass Schlitz bar lights hanging from the cream-colored ceiling. Was it painted that shade, or is it just really old? Who knows, and who cares? All I know is that the jukebox in the back is giving us the perfect country soundtrack to bring the vibes together.

The food, served on paper plates with plasticware, perfect for the classics one might consume, is, again, exactly what you’d expect. Nachos, Frito pie, chile cheese fries, and the glorious, infamous Tavern Burger. Pickles, mustard, a handmade beef patty, cheddar cheese, lettuce, tomato, onion, bacon (on mine, anyway), and that old familiar, fire-roasted green chile. And here’s the thing about a small town in New Mexico: They don’t usually go with the mild shit. At the Buckhorn, they loaded my burger with exactly what I wanted: hot, chopped green chile. While I can’t imagine the Michelin Guide or even James Beard folks coming through the doors anytime soon, I can say this meal satisfied something quintessential on this very New Mexican road trip. Food at the Buckhorn is made to order, cooked the way it’s been cooked for ages. It’s food for the people, and while this wasn’t my favorite green chile cheeseburger outside city limits (that distinction belongs to Burger Boy in Cedar Crest), it was a solid burger, and a fresh, hot meal served by lovely people.

Buckhorn Tavern | 68 US Highway 380, 575-835-4423

Stop #5 Riverbend Hot Springs

Somewhere between San Antonio and T or C, my phone died, and along with it, my ability to capture breathtaking photos. So an image borrowed from someone else’s road trip will have to do.

There are a handful of places to soak in the mineral-rich waters of T or C, and honestly, many of them are just fine. I hear even the many short-term rental homes here have private soaking tubs in their backyards, but Riverbend Hot Springs will always have a special place in my heart. This was where, after months of learning what stress can do to a person, I finally healed, and learned how important it is to relax. So that’s where we head, straight through this tiny, quirky city, to our final destination on this loop.

The public pools at Riverbend are the perfect place to just turn it all off and let yourself exhale. Overlooking the Rio Grande and with an excellent view of Caballo Cone, you can sit, soak, and relax. Other folks might be there, and if that is not your jam, you can get one of the private soaking tubs for an hour or two and truly feel like you’re in an oasis, all while still sharing the same stunning views. Whether you choose public or private, this, my friends, is the ideal place to learn how to be quiet. To just shut the fuck up and let it all go. Nothing matters here, in this calm domain, with healing waters and views that will remind you why this is called the Land of Enchantment. I know, cheesy, right? But what’s life without cheese, eh?

After my soak, it’s time to go home. I really don’t care how long it takes to get back; I’m truly enjoying the road. The time and space to let my calm mind wonder as my achy bones soak up the last moments of sitting down for a few hours before it’s back to the grind. But in the back of my head, I’m already looking forward to flipping on the burners and drinking that first cup of morning coffee in my old Nob Hill kitchen. See y’all there.