Words and Photos by Stephanie Cameron
Arriving in the city known for mole poblano, chiles en nogada, and Talavera pottery, I was surprised by the dichotomy of modern and colonial-era architecture. Despite the many department stores in Puebla today, the zócalo, the main square, remains the city’s cultural, political, and religious center and was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1987. Many downtown buildings incorporate glazed, decorative Talavera tiles, introduced by early residents from Spain. The cuisine, as I discovered, is also not limited to the stuff of colonial legend: Puebla’s chalupas, tacos dorados, tacos árabes, cemitas poblanas, and molotes are all must-trys.
Sabor a Puebla: Chalupas
In the heart of Puebla’s historical district stands an old fountain, which serves as the centerpiece of the lively zócalo. This vibrant gathering place, surrounded by notable buildings such as City Hall, the Casa de los Muñecos, and the Basilica Cathedral of Puebla, is ideal for people watching. You can relax and enjoy the view from the patio of one of the many adjacent bars and cafés that look over the zócalo. At Sabor a Puebla, chalupas served in sets with salsa verde, salsa roja, and mole poblano were perfect for sharing while drinking cerveza and watching the barrenderos (street sweepers).
Clementina Cocina Poblana: Chalupas and Tacos Dorados
Eating chalupas only once on my trip wasn’t an option. This quintessential Pueblan street food, closer to a light tostada than what often passes for a chalupa in the United States, is essentially a corn tortilla fried in lard, bathed in salsa, and topped with shredded pork or chicken, onions, and sometimes a sprinkling of fresh cheese. At Clementina, I paired my chalupas with tacos dorados: crispy, golden corn tortillas filled with chicken and potatoes, served with sour cream and cheese (and, of course, table salsas). Clementina is situated on the Street of Sweets, known for its forty dulcerías, so be sure to save room for dessert. I went with the strawberry tres leches cake at Dulceria Dos Hermanos.
Mezcalería Míel de Agave: Esquites and Mezcal
“Mezcaleros somos, y en el camino andamos” is the phrase scrawled in neon on the wall of Míel de Agave which reflects the passion and spirit of this space. The proprietors may not produce mezcal, but they’re all about honoring the culture and diversity of mezcal. My dinner companions and I ordered four flights (twelve tastes) of mezcal and several dishes to share. The esquites, a creamy corn dish prepared with mayonnaise, chopped chile poblano, epazote, cheese, and salsa macha, was a highlight for me, as well as the Candinga Papalometl mezcal. From the food to the cocktails to the service, Míel de Agave delivered an exquisite taste of Puebla.
Stephanie Cameron was raised in Albuquerque and earned a degree in fine arts at the University of New Mexico. She is the art director, head photographer, recipe tester, marketing guru, publisher, and owner of edible New Mexico and The Bite.
