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Early Summer 2025: Watershed

Early Summer 2025: Watershed

There is precious little riverside dining in New Mexico, but it’s not for our rivers’ lack of majesty nor for our failure to recognize that rivers, whether wild or tamed, are precious. Their value is especially felt as we transition from spring to summer, when flows slow and farmers and stewards rely heavily on centuries-old acequia systems. Early summer is the season of crisp mornings and crisp harvests, of sunsets witnessed from restaurant patios and backyard gatherings. It is also a season of tremendous thirst, when anyone who lives here can understand the logic of dancing for rain.

In this issue of edible New Mexico, we take an expansive view of the watershed, featuring stories that tell of the many sources that sustain life in our arid land. Reporting from Gallup to the banks of the Zuni River, Sarah Mock shares modern approaches to the ancient art of water collection in communities contending with the repercussions of federal acts. In considering recent efforts at legislation to protect local waters from “forever chemicals,” Las Cruces–area grower Shahid Mustafa’s eye is on the water underground. We hear, too, about an Indigenous-led project to restore watersheds in the long aftermath of wildfire.

Dropping down from the mountains, we trace the ephemeral Santa Fe River to the mill where blue corn is ground for whiskey poured on Agua Fria. Poet and Taos native Victoriano Cárdenas talks acequias, farming, and genízaro identity with a Dixon grower and mayordomo, and we get the story behind the local food hub that just might have delivered the week’s produce to the restaurant where you picked up this magazine. Speaking of the foodshed: Among the Local Heroes highlighted here and in the latest episodes of 5-Minute Fridays are the winners of our Spotlight Awards for Farmworker and Food System.

To quench our thirst (and curiosity), Erin Elder takes us on an illustrated tour of the plant that treats river water for drinking in Bernalillo County. If it’s aqua vitae you seek, turn to the guide to Cocktail Week. For those occasions when you thirst for the boldest and coldest flavors of summer, we offer recipes and tips for homemade paletas. We recommend that you pair one with an afternoon connecting with your river. Stand in the sun and soak in the sticky, cool flavors. This, all of it, is the fruit of our watershed.

There is precious little riverside dining in New Mexico, but it’s not for our rivers’ lack of majesty nor for our failure to recognize that rivers, whether wild or tamed, are precious. Their value is especially felt as we transition from spring to summer, when flows slow and farmers and stewards rely heavily on centuries-old acequia systems. Early summer is the season of crisp mornings and crisp harvests, of sunsets witnessed from restaurant patios and backyard gatherings. It is also a season of tremendous thirst, when anyone who lives here can understand the logic of dancing for rain.

In this issue of edible New Mexico, we take an expansive view of the watershed, featuring stories that tell of the many sources that sustain life in our arid land. Reporting from Gallup to the banks of the Zuni River, Sarah Mock shares modern approaches to the ancient art of water collection in communities contending with the repercussions of federal acts. In considering recent efforts at legislation to protect local waters from “forever chemicals,” Las Cruces–area grower Shahid Mustafa’s eye is on the water underground. We hear, too, about an Indigenous-led project to restore watersheds in the long aftermath of wildfire.

Dropping down from the mountains, we trace the ephemeral Santa Fe River to the mill where blue corn is ground for whiskey poured on Agua Fria. Poet and Taos native Victoriano Cárdenas talks acequias, farming, and genízaro identity with a Dixon grower and mayordomo, and we get the story behind the local food hub that just might have delivered the week’s produce to the restaurant where you picked up this magazine. Speaking of the foodshed: Among the Local Heroes highlighted here and in the latest episodes of 5-Minute Fridays are the winners of our Spotlight Awards for Farmworker and Food System.

To quench our thirst (and curiosity), Erin Elder takes us on an illustrated tour of the plant that treats river water for drinking in Bernalillo County. If it’s aqua vitae you seek, turn to the guide to Cocktail Week. For those occasions when you thirst for the boldest and coldest flavors of summer, we offer recipes and tips for homemade paletas. We recommend that you pair one with an afternoon connecting with your river. Stand in the sun and soak in the sticky, cool flavors. This, all of it, is the fruit of our watershed.

Drinking Water in Albuquerque

Drinking Water in Albuquerque

Erin Elder takes us on an illustrated tour of the plant that treats river water for drinking in Bernalillo County.

Flow Down

Flow Down

Susanna Space traces the ephemeral Santa Fe River to the mill where blue corn is ground for Tumbleroot Brewery and Distillery’s Farmhouse Whisky.

Tomato Recipes

Tomato Recipes

In preparation for an abundance of tomatoes, we’re arming you with a handful of super-quick recipes to help you make good use of these summer treasures before you begin canning and freezing them to savor year-round.

IT TAKES A FOODSHED

IT TAKES A FOODSHED

When it comes to getting locally grown food onto local plates, New Mexico Harvest does it all.

Balsamic Roasted Cherry and Chocolate-Coco Paletas

Balsamic Roasted Cherry and Chocolate-Coco Paletas

Balsamic Roasted Cherry Pops combine the ultimate sweet treat of vanilla ice cream with dark sweet cherries made slightly tart with high-quality balsamic vinegar. The Chocolate-Coco Paletas can be made with Oaxacan chocolate or high-quality local chocolate, such as Eldora in Albuquerque or Chokolá in Taos.

Capulin Canyon

Capulin Canyon

Ungelbah Dávila reports on an Indigenous-led project to restore watersheds in the long aftermath of wildfire.

THE ART OF MAKING WATER

THE ART OF MAKING WATER

In considering recent efforts to protect local waters from “forever chemicals,” Las Cruces–area grower Shahid Mustafa’s eye is on the water underground.

Thai Tea and Cheese Foam Paletas

Thai Tea and Cheese Foam Paletas

Adding cheese foam topping to iced coffee or tea drinks takes your beverage experience to the next level, and the same goes for these Thai Tea and Cheese Foam Paletas.

The Once and Future River

The Once and Future River

Reporting from Gallup to the banks of the Zuni River, Sarah Mock shares modern approaches to the ancient art of water collection in communities contending with the repercussions of federal acts.

Agua de Jamaica Paletas

Agua de Jamaica Paletas

In this recipe, the jamaica (hibiscus) petals imbue their bright, ruby-red hue with a punch of tanginess that puckers your lips and keeps you longing for more.

Boozy Paletas

Boozy Paletas

The only thing more refreshing than a margarita poolside on a hot summer day is a frozen margarita in Popsicle form.

Forty-Eight Hours in Puebla

Forty-Eight Hours in Puebla

The city of Puebla, Mexico, is famous for its cuisine—Stephanie Cameron highlights three spots where the chalupas, tacos dorados, esquites, and mezcal are must-trys.

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