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Fall 2020: Groundwork

Fall 2020: Groundwork

This issue of edible is for the workers that form the backbone of our food economy. Rarely in the limelight and often undervalued, the many farmworkers, delivery drivers, produce handlers, servers, dishwashers, and other food industry workers who bring the food to our tables, sometimes literally, have stories to tell. The stories in these pages make clear that, for many, the labor behind our meals has never felt more dangerous, more insecure, or less compensated. In this issue, we hope to give a voice to some of these workers and share a few of their experiences and concerns as the ongoing pandemic persists.

In the Throes of Tomatoes

Resources for Gardening in New Mexico Words and Photos by Marisa ThompsonNothing says late summer...

Chasing Korean Flavor

A Journey Inside A-Ri-Rang By John Katrinak · Photos by Stephanie CameronNavigating Albuquerque in...

Hollow Spirits

Looking Forward to Being Full Again By Michael Dax · Photos by Stacey M. AdamsFrank Holloway,...

This issue of edible is for the workers that form the backbone of our food economy. Rarely in the limelight and often undervalued, the many farmworkers, delivery drivers, produce handlers, servers, dishwashers, and other food industry workers who bring the food to our tables, sometimes literally, have stories to tell. The stories in these pages make clear that, for many, the labor behind our meals has never felt more dangerous, more insecure, or less compensated. In this issue, we hope to give a voice to some of these workers and share a few of their experiences and concerns as the ongoing pandemic persists.

The labor behind our meals, as the stories in this issue likewise reveal, is manifold: it is the work of perfecting a tomato harvest in the garden, maintaining a craft distillery during a pandemic, or using a cookie shop as a platform for racial justice and lasting change. These stories remind us that good food, the kind that nourishes and strengthens the bonds of family, friendships, and community, comes not just through love, but through sweat.

We also shine a light on food businesses and towns that have often been overlooked or sidelined, with visits to a handbuilt barbecue rig in Alamogordo and a hole-in-the-wall Korean restaurant and market in Albuquerque. In highlighting Black business owners and tapping into Albuquerque’s budding Korean food scene, we begin to confront the invisibility of those members of our greater food community who tend to be excluded from mainline narratives of our state’s history. Seeking out, patronizing, and amplifying BIPOC-owned businesses is essential work for all who are dedicated to the vitality of local food.

As this issue goes to press, reports on the slowing transmission of COVID-19 give us cautious reason to hope. As we celebrate the backyard harvest of tomatoes, and as the state moves once again toward reopening, we invite readers to honor (and tip!) those who all along have continued their work behind the scenes—planting seeds, hoeing rows, wiping down tables, and building the kinds of relationships and mutual aid networks that we all need. Now more than ever, we ask that you support the labor being done here, in New Mexico, in your neighborhoods, and for the health of our communities.

In the Throes of Tomatoes

In the Throes of Tomatoes

Resources for Gardening in New Mexico Words and Photos by Marisa ThompsonNothing says late summer like a tomato. Let’s look at ways to make the most of the harvest, prepare for the inevitable first freeze, and set up for a fruitful 2021 growing season. Whether you’re...

Chasing Korean Flavor

Chasing Korean Flavor

A Journey Inside A-Ri-Rang By John Katrinak · Photos by Stephanie CameronNavigating Albuquerque in search of ingredients to create traditional Korean dishes has always been quite the feat. However, my recent discovery of A-Ri-Rang Oriental Market in the eastern part...

Hollow Spirits

Hollow Spirits

Looking Forward to Being Full Again By Michael Dax · Photos by Stacey M. AdamsFrank Holloway, co-owner of Hollow Spirits. When Frank Holloway opened the Hollow Spirits Distillery in 2018, it was the culmination of his life’s work. Holloway has worked in bars and...

Hot ‘n Fast

Hot ‘n Fast

Barbecue at its Best in Southeast New Mexico Words and Photo by Cristina CarreonLance Gardner and his son Maurice in front of the Au Jus BBQ food truck. Southern-style barbecue is not relegated to the Deep South in the United States. After I wrote a story about the...

Rude Boy Cookies Takes on Racism in the 505

Rude Boy Cookies Takes on Racism in the 505

Cookie shop bands with other local businesses to raise community awareness By Robin Babb · Photos by Sergio SalvadorMike Silva and Kristin Dowling, owners of Rude Boy Cookies. When Mike Silva and Kristin Dowling opened their first Rude Boy Cookies location on Harvard...

Sean Sinclair

Sean Sinclair

Executive Chef/Owner of Bar CastaÑeda and Kin at CastaÑeda Local Hero: Best Chef, Greater New Mexico Photos by Stephanie CameronSean Sinclair is executive chef and proprietor at Bar Castañeda and Kin at Castañeda. Born and raised in Tijeras, Sinclair has great pride...

Charlie’s Bakery and Café

Charlie’s Bakery and Café

An Interview with Charlie Sandoval, Owner/Operator Local Hero: Best Café, Northern New Mexico Photos by Stephanie Cameron Charlie’s Spic & Span Bakery and Café has been a Las Vegas institution since the 1950s. In the early 2000s, the restaurant and bakery was...

The Skillet

The Skillet

An Interview with Isaac Sandoval, Owner/Chef, and Shawna Sandoval, Owner/Operator Local Hero: Best Restaurant, Greater New Mexico Photos by Stephanie Cameron ​ The Skillet team from left to right, bottom row up: Charlotte Sandoval, Talula Lennox, Hannah Lopez, Bailey...

Vanilla Old Fashioned

Vanilla Old Fashioned

Pair this recipe with a Bourbon-Soaked Pear Galette. *Note: The bourbon mixture below comes from the reserved bourbon mixture in the Bourbon-Soaked Pear Galette recipe. Bourbon can be substituted if not making the galette. Vanilla Old Fashioned 1 sugar cube 2 dashes...

Bourbon-Soaked Pear Galette

Bourbon-Soaked Pear Galette

This recipe appeared in "Cooking Fresh" in the fall issue of edible New Mexico. See all “Celebrating Fall with the Galette" recipes and get the galette dough recipe and instructions here. *Note: Reserve bourbon-soaked pears to make a Vanilla Old-Fashioned....

Cardamom Apple and Salted Caramel Galette

Cardamom Apple and Salted Caramel Galette

This recipe appeared in "Cooking Fresh" in the fall issue of edible New Mexico. See all “Celebrating Fall with the Galette" recipes and get the galette dough recipe and instructions here. Cardamom Apple and Salted Caramel Make caramel sauce while galette is baking....

Late Tomato Harvest Caprese with Balsamic Galette

Late Tomato Harvest Caprese with Balsamic Galette

This recipe appeared in "Cooking Fresh" in the fall issue of edible New Mexico. See all “Celebrating Fall with the Galette" recipes and get the galette dough recipe and instructions here. Late Tomato Harvest Caprese with Balsamic An abundance of green tomatoes can be...

Beet and Sweet Potato with Rosemary Ricotta Galette

Beet and Sweet Potato with Rosemary Ricotta Galette

This recipe appeared in "Cooking Fresh" in the fall issue of edible New Mexico. See all “Celebrating Fall with the Galette" recipes and get the galette dough recipe and instructions here. Beet and Sweet Potato with Rosemary Ricotta For variation, substitute a pound of...

Sausage with Caramelized Onion and Mushrooms Galette

Sausage with Caramelized Onion and Mushrooms Galette

This recipe appeared in "Cooking Fresh" in the fall issue of edible New Mexico. See all “Celebrating Fall with the Galette" recipes and get the galette dough recipe and instructions here. Sausage with Caramelized Onion and Mushrooms For a vegetarian version of this...

Mongolian Beef with Shishito Peppers and Daikon Radishes Galette

Mongolian Beef with Shishito Peppers and Daikon Radishes Galette

This recipe appeared in "Cooking Fresh" in the fall issue of edible New Mexico. See all “Celebrating Fall with the Galette" recipes and get the galette dough recipe and instructions here. Mongolian Beef with Shishito Peppers and Daikon Radishes Ground pork or thinly...

Celebrating Fall with the Galette

Celebrating Fall with the Galette

Imperfect and versatile, galettes are free-form pies that can be made savory or sweet. The flaky, buttery galette is more forgiving than almost any other French pastry, yet makes a stunning, circular centerpiece for any dinner or dessert. Although we provide you with...

United States of Anxiety

United States of Anxiety

As the Pandemic Surges, Restaurant Workers FaceFears about the Virus and their Livelihoods By Joanna Manganaro TotoDonning masks and carrying handwritten signs, restaurant workers gathered around their employers to take photos that would later flood social media and...

The Compound

The Compound

An Interview with Mark Kiffin, Owner Local Hero: Best Restaurant, Santa Fe Photos by Douglas MerriamThe Compound restaurant has a heritage rich in history and regional influences. Before its incarnation as a restaurant in 1966, its adobe home was the centerpiece of a...

In the Weeds

In the Weeds

Hearing from the front lines of local agriculture By Anita Ashok AdaljaGrow the Growers program trainees digging a berm at the Gutiérrez-Hubbell House. Photo by Stephanie Cameron. The coronavirus pandemic has added a new element of uncertainty to the already...

Black Mesa Winery

Black Mesa Winery

An Interview with Owners Lynda Burd and Jerry Burd Local Hero: Best Winery Photos by Stephanie Cameron Black Mesa Winery produces wines and ciders using 100 percent New Mexico grapes and apples. All fruit is hand sorted, pressed, fermented, and bottled at the winery....

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Edible New Mexico

Edible celebrates New Mexico's food culture, season by season. We believe that knowing where our food comes from is a powerful thing. With our high-quality, aesthetically pleasing and informative publication, we inspire readers to support and celebrate the growers, producers, chefs, beverage and food artisans, and other food professionals in our community.

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