At its finest, a restaurant is a dance—like traffic in Rome, where pedestrians thread gracefully between vehicles, cars floating halfway in one lane, halfway in another. And it always seems impossible, and indescribably beautiful, that nothing has gone wrong; that no one has fallen, that the movement has not halted. The knife hasn’t slipped; the sauce hasn’t broken; the duck hasn’t scorched. Someone might miss their cue, but small mistakes—at least in the absence of tyrants—disappear into the astonishing continuity of the dance. Slow days, the lull between setting up and service, are part of the dance as well. So is the last rack of dishes, the errant plate left for the next shift to wash.
In this issue of edible New Mexico, we consider the restaurant. This is not an index of local restaurants or a best-of reel; it’s an exploration of the people and the choreography. Sommelier Kristina Hayden Bustamante reflects on the rules of wine and when to break them with a visit to Paloma, and Nina Katz offers a taste of menu development with a trip to Alkemē. Chef Israel Rivera recommends where to eat New Mexican in Albuquerque, based not only on the quality of the food but on the quality of the vibe. (He’s also one of the local chefs and bakers whose recipes you’ll find, like a trail of inspiration, throughout the issue.) We learn, too, about M’tucci’s adoption of a four-day workweek. Local Heroes featured in these pages (and in the latest editions of our podcast, 5-Minute Fridays) include pastry chef Randall Watson, winner of the 2024 Spotlight Award for Back of House.
With our feature stories, we delve into the steps of the dance that take place offstage. In one, Lynn Cline digs into the art of local sourcing, talking with a few northern New Mexico chefs and restaurateurs who take their ingredients quite seriously. In another, Ungelbah Dávila writes about the role digital platforms play in the rise of modern Indigenous food businesses. And we could not consider the restaurant without considering the people who most often go unnamed: In a photo feature, we peek behind the curtain with back-of-house shots captured by Douglas Merriam and Nathaniel Tetsuro Paolinelli. The next time you’re being whirled through a restaurant meal, consider that you, too, are part of this performance.
At its finest, a restaurant is a dance—like traffic in Rome, where pedestrians thread gracefully between vehicles, cars floating halfway in one lane, halfway in another. And it always seems impossible, and indescribably beautiful, that nothing has gone wrong; that no one has fallen, that the movement has not halted. The knife hasn’t slipped; the sauce hasn’t broken; the duck hasn’t scorched. Someone might miss their cue, but small mistakes—at least in the absence of tyrants—disappear into the astonishing continuity of the dance. Slow days, the lull between setting up and service, are part of the dance as well. So is the last rack of dishes, the errant plate left for the next shift to wash.
In this issue of edible New Mexico, we consider the restaurant. This is not an index of local restaurants or a best-of reel; it’s an exploration of the people and the choreography. Sommelier Kristina Hayden Bustamante reflects on the rules of wine and when to break them with a visit to Paloma, and Nina Katz offers a taste of menu development with a trip to Alkemē. Chef Israel Rivera recommends where to eat New Mexican in Albuquerque, based not only on the quality of the food but on the quality of the vibe. (He’s also one of the local chefs and bakers whose recipes you’ll find, like a trail of inspiration, throughout the issue.) We learn, too, about M’tucci’s adoption of a four-day workweek. Local Heroes featured in these pages (and in the latest editions of our podcast, 5-Minute Fridays) include pastry chef Randall Watson, winner of the 2024 Spotlight Award for Back of House.
With our feature stories, we delve into the steps of the dance that take place offstage. In one, Lynn Cline digs into the art of local sourcing, talking with a few northern New Mexico chefs and restaurateurs who take their ingredients quite seriously. In another, Ungelbah Dávila writes about the role digital platforms play in the rise of modern Indigenous food businesses. And we could not consider the restaurant without considering the people who most often go unnamed: In a photo feature, we peek behind the curtain with back-of-house shots captured by Douglas Merriam and Nathaniel Tetsuro Paolinelli. The next time you’re being whirled through a restaurant meal, consider that you, too, are part of this performance.
Izz’s Guide to Strictly New Mexican Dining in Albuquerque
Chef Israel Rivera recommends where to eat New Mexican in Albuquerque, based not only on the quality of the food but on the quality of the vibe.
A Force for Good
Sophie Putka gets the scoop on M’tucci’s four-day work week, a rarity in a restaurant world known for its long hours and high burnout rates.
At Least Three Reasons to Love New Orleans
Briana Olson finds restaurants new and old where the vibe—and the cuisine—carry on the traditions that make New Orleans a food lovers’ city.
Indigi-tal Foodways
Ungelbah Dávila writes about the role digital platforms play in the rise of modern Indigenous food businesses.
Sunchoke Agnolotti with Arugula Pesto
This spring-focused pasta dish is ideal for the transition between cold and hot seasons.
A Natural Pairing
Sommelier Kristina Hayden Bustamante reflects on the rules of wine and when to break
them with a visit to Paloma in Santa Fe.
Dark Chocolate Pot de Crème Tart with Espresso Whipped Cream and Salted Caramel
A twist on the classic French pot de crème, this chocolate lover’s tart is perfect for entertaining and feels fancy enough for any special occasion.
Noche Negra Negroni
Our spin on the Negroni uses dark VARA rum to impart smoky molasses flavors, and the orange notes balance and brighten it, making this a lovely twist on the classic.
Beets Three Ways
These three simple recipes prove that beets can hit more notes than they usually get credit for.
Back of House
From dishwasher to sous-chef to line cook, the people working in restaurant kitchens are some of the hardest workers in the industry, and they don’t often get much shine.
The Art of Sourcing Locally
Lynn Cline digs into the art of local sourcing, talking with a few northern New Mexico chefs and restaurateurs who take their ingredients quite seriously.
New Mexican Pecan Bacon Bread
This sweet and savory bread is a New Mexican spin on Louisiana pecan bacon bread, substituting spicy green chile for bell peppers.
A Mosaic Menu
At Alkemē (pronounced “Alchemy”) at Open Kitchen in downtown Santa Fe, you’ll taste the melding and matching of Vietnamese, Taiwanese, Korean, and Hawaiian Pacific Rim.
Spring Salad with Green Goddess Dressing
The great thing about this fresh, seasonal recipe is that you can mix and mingle the herbs and lettuces to match your taste.
