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Author: Candolin Cook

Another Day in Polvaderadise

Artichoke Café’s David Gaspar de Alba Puts in Time at the Farm Chefs work long, demanding shifts, often late into the night. But early one Sunday morning in May, Artichoke Café’s new executive chef David Gaspar de Alba arrived promptly at my door, ready to carpool to Polvadera, New Mexico, to help a farmer plant her summer crops. My husband, Seth, also a farmer, handed him a cup of coffee and the three of us piled into my car to make the hour-long trip south. I didn’t really know Gaspar de Alba, but I was already impressed that a...

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Meet and Eat: Paloma

A Q & A with Executive Chef Nathan Mayes Signature cocktail, the Paloma. As soon as I entered Paloma for the first time I started planning for my birthday. The new restaurant’s superbly curated style, spirits, and sophisticated Mexican-inspired cuisine, has instantly made it one of the most exciting dinner spots in Santa Fe. Despite being relatively small, the dining room is bright, open, and full of pops of color from modern and traditional Mexican décor. A chic bar stands in front of an exposed brick wall and a private, eight-seat corner booth adorned with tangerine pillows perfectly accommodates...

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Fire in the Belly

Live-Fire Cooking, So Hot Right Now? photos by Stephanie Cameron Common Fire’s igloo-shaped Le Panyol oven, constructed out of white clay from France’s Rhône Valley. From Japanese robata to Pueblo hornos to Southern barbeques, live-fire cooking methods have been utilized by virtually every culture and cuisine since the dawn of homo sapiens. Nonetheless, in the high-end dining world, fire is currently all the rage. For the past decade, restaurants that feature open kitchens with wood-burning ovens and grills have been spreading like, well, wildfire. Suddenly gas and dials are passé; steaming and sautéing, banal; simple fire-code inspections, gutless. Food...

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Shakshuka

recipe by Seth Matlick, photos by Stephanie Cameron Shakshuka is a hearty family-style breakfast dish of eggs poached in sautéed tomatoes, onions, and peppers. Although from North Africa, it is commonly found throughout the Middle East. I first ate shakshuka while traveling in Israel, where it is eaten as often for lunch or dinner as it is for breakfast. Using fresh, local tomatoes is ideal, but during the winter they can be hard to come by. I prefer using whole canned tomatoes because, according to Kenji Lopez-Alt’s The Food Lab, “Diced tomatoes are packed with extra calcium chloride, which...

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Rosti

recipe by Seth Matlick, photos by Stephanie Cameron Potatoes are central to breakfast or brunch meals, whether it’s hash browns, home fries, or roasted spuds smothered in chile and cheese. Making the shakshuka reminded me of eating in Israel, and with Hanukkah just past, I couldn’t help but think of latkes. Rosti is the Swiss cousin of the latke, typically made by browning grated raw potatoes and onions in a hot skillet and then very carefully sliding onto an inverted plate and returning to the pan without breaking up your beautiful potato cake. This easy recipe uses parcooked potatoes...

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