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Author: Candolin Cook

Fire in the Belly

Live-Fire Cooking, So Hot Right Now? photos by Stephanie Cameron Common Fire’s igloo-shaped Le Panyol oven, constructed out of white clay from France’s Rhône Valley. From Japanese robata to Pueblo hornos to Southern barbeques, live-fire cooking methods have been utilized by virtually every culture and cuisine since the dawn of homo sapiens. Nonetheless, in the high-end dining world, fire is currently all the rage. For the past decade, restaurants that feature open kitchens with wood-burning ovens and grills have been spreading like, well, wildfire. Suddenly gas and dials are passé; steaming and sautéing, banal; simple fire-code inspections, gutless. Food...

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Shakshuka

recipe by Seth Matlick, photos by Stephanie Cameron Shakshuka is a hearty family-style breakfast dish of eggs poached in sautéed tomatoes, onions, and peppers. Although from North Africa, it is commonly found throughout the Middle East. I first ate shakshuka while traveling in Israel, where it is eaten as often for lunch or dinner as it is for breakfast. Using fresh, local tomatoes is ideal, but during the winter they can be hard to come by. I prefer using whole canned tomatoes because, according to Kenji Lopez-Alt’s The Food Lab, “Diced tomatoes are packed with extra calcium chloride, which...

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Rosti

recipe by Seth Matlick, photos by Stephanie Cameron Potatoes are central to breakfast or brunch meals, whether it’s hash browns, home fries, or roasted spuds smothered in chile and cheese. Making the shakshuka reminded me of eating in Israel, and with Hanukkah just past, I couldn’t help but think of latkes. Rosti is the Swiss cousin of the latke, typically made by browning grated raw potatoes and onions in a hot skillet and then very carefully sliding onto an inverted plate and returning to the pan without breaking up your beautiful potato cake. This easy recipe uses parcooked potatoes...

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For the Love of Brunch

photos by Stephanie Cameron During this time of year, when the days are short and the air is icy, it’s often difficult to get out of the house and connect with friends. For many of us, this winter has been especially dark. So for this installment of Cooking Fresh, my husband and I decided to let some light in. We enlisted our pal, event planner and stylist Amy Gallegos, to help us throw a charming, farm-to-table brunch for a few of our friends. Designing a brunch or dinner party is a fun way to express your creativity, and breaking...

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A New Mexico Classic: The Compound Turns 50

On the afternoon of May 30, 2000, chef Mark Kiffin stood in the dining room of the historic adobe property known as The Compound, inspecting his impeccable waitstaff. This was the opening night of Kiffin’s incarnation of The Compound, a legendary and beloved Santa Fe restaurant, established in 1966 by Will and Barbara Houghton. Having recently acquired the property from its long-time second owner, Victor Sagheer, Kiffin felt an obligation on this inaugural night to honor the establishment’s legacy of French elegance by personally tying a bowtie onto the necks of each of his seventeen servers. “To serve real...

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