The abridged history of the road trip usually begins with pavement, from the construction of the Mother Road to the post–World War II network of highways that opened the Wild West to the automobile. Roadside burgers, the story goes, quickly followed, fueling the legend of America. But aren’t movement and migration intrinsic to being human, no matter where you live? First there were footpaths threading through New Mexico’s canyons and badlands, then horse trails, then railroads. The route that cacao and its artisans likely traveled from Tenochtitlán to Chaco has long since been paved, but the spirit of what the Spanish named El Camino Real de Tierra Adentro still inhabits I-25.
In this issue of edible New Mexico, we branch out in all directions, visiting some of the state’s most far-flung and under-sung food artisans. Riding to Taos and back with Nina Katz, we get insider tips on tortas and more, including what may be the secret to one restaurant’s staying power in a tiny old town in the mountains. (Hint: It’s layered.) We follow Ungelbah Dávila down old Route 66, finding community—and an array of eats—on the too-often-skipped path through Valencia County. Chef Israel Rivera, en route to Truth or Consequences for a healing soak, makes the case for exiting the highway both for the food and the rocks. Hitting the farther reaches, we queue up for ’cue in Cloudcroft and roll through Chama, taking away another sweet story along with exceptional pastries. We even cross state lines to dip into Marfa and sip sotol.
Whatever your destination and whatever route you take, New Mexico also offers infinite opportunities for dining al fresco. To that end, we’re including a collection of recipes for picnic salads, some of which are even hardy enough to pack for a hike (and all of which work just as well for any summer potluck). There’s also a recipe for a stunning pistachio torte; pair it with the tale of the pistachio’s slow but sure infiltration of the Tularosa Basin and the American palate.
New Mexico is a state marked by distances, open space, profound views, and perspectives that reveal the curve of the earth and every curve in the road. Get out there, and don’t forget to eat.
The abridged history of the road trip usually begins with pavement, from the construction of the Mother Road to the post–World War II network of highways that opened the Wild West to the automobile. Roadside burgers, the story goes, quickly followed, fueling the legend of America. But aren’t movement and migration intrinsic to being human, no matter where you live? First there were footpaths threading through New Mexico’s canyons and badlands, then horse trails, then railroads. The route that cacao and its artisans likely traveled from Tenochtitlán to Chaco has long since been paved, but the spirit of what the Spanish named El Camino Real de Tierra Adentro still inhabits I-25.
In this issue of edible New Mexico, we branch out in all directions, visiting some of the state’s most far-flung and under-sung food artisans. Riding to Taos and back with Nina Katz, we get insider tips on tortas and more, including what may be the secret to one restaurant’s staying power in a tiny old town in the mountains. (Hint: It’s layered.) We follow Ungelbah Dávila down old Route 66, finding community—and an array of eats—on the too-often-skipped path through Valencia County. Chef Israel Rivera, en route to Truth or Consequences for a healing soak, makes the case for exiting the highway both for the food and the rocks. Hitting the farther reaches, we queue up for ’cue in Cloudcroft and roll through Chama, taking away another sweet story along with exceptional pastries. We even cross state lines to dip into Marfa and sip sotol.
Whatever your destination and whatever route you take, New Mexico also offers infinite opportunities for dining al fresco. To that end, we’re including a collection of recipes for picnic salads, some of which are even hardy enough to pack for a hike (and all of which work just as well for any summer potluck). There’s also a recipe for a stunning pistachio torte; pair it with the tale of the pistachio’s slow but sure infiltration of the Tularosa Basin and the American palate.
New Mexico is a state marked by distances, open space, profound views, and perspectives that reveal the curve of the earth and every curve in the road. Get out there, and don’t forget to eat.
Three Places to Imbibe in Funky Marfa, Texas
Stephanie Cameron dips into the windswept town of Marfa to sip sotol, mezcal, and tequila.
Mildred Rewritten Cocktail
Substituting sotol for mezcal, this twist on Abigail Gullo’s Mildred Pierce retains a slight smokiness and is imbued with a pronounced earthy quality.
Five Picnic Salads That Won’t Wilt in Your Basket
This edition of Cooking Fresh features hearty salads that travel well and can either complement an epic feast of charcuterie boards, deviled eggs, local wine, lemonade, and sweet treats, or play the leading role.
A Sweet Stop in Chama
Briana Olson rolls through Chama and explores the magic of Wilder Bakeshop, taking away a sweet story along with exceptional pastries.
The Roads to Taos Are Low, High, and Delicious
Riding to Taos and back with Nina Katz, we get insider tips on tortas and more, including what may be the secret to one restaurant’s staying power in a tiny old town in the mountains.
Izzy’s Road Trip
Chef Israel Rivera, en route to Truth or Consequences for a healing soak, makes the case for exiting the highway both for the food and the rocks.
Mediterranean Orzo Salad
Orzo makes a great pasta salad base because it has a firm and toothsome texture (as long as you don’t overcook it), but you can substitute fusilli, orecchiette, or any other short pasta that’s in your pantry.
The Queue for the ’Cue at Mad Jack’s Mountaintop Barbecue
The real star of the show at Mad Jack’s is the brisket: unbelievably moist, almost buttery, its fat rendered down to melt-in-your-mouth, umami goodness.
Charred Corn with White Beans and Lime Crema
The addition of charred corn, cumin, lime, and paprika make this bean salad reminiscent of Mexican street corn.
Dining South on Old Route 66
Ungelbah Dávila takes us on a trip down old Route 66, finding community—and an array of eats—on the too-often-skipped path through Valencia County.
Black Rice Salad with Cherries and Plums
Black rice, often referred to as forbidden rice, has a nutty flavor and a chewy texture and is packed with fiber, protein, and antioxidants, and it pairs wonderfully with seasonal fruits.
Green Gold: Pistachios in New Mexico
Tom Hudgens tells the tale of the pistachio’s slow but sure infiltration of the Tularosa Basin and the American palate.
Pistachio Torte
This recipe was developed in the tradition of European torten, a family of cakes based on ground nuts and containing little flour or other fat.
Smashed Cucumber Chili Crisp Salad
This cucumber salad is a spin on the classic Sichuan dish—simple, spicy, crispy, savory, and slightly addictive. The combination of crunchy peanuts and chili crisp with refreshing cucumbers is delightful. However, cucumbers can be slippery, making it difficult for the...
Prickly Pear Cupcakes
The flavor combos with cake and frosting are endless, but with these Prickly Pear Cupcakes, we are celebrating New Mexico’s abundant food artisans who work with this succulent treasure.
Green Bean Salad with Pickles
Common green beans are called for in this recipe, but numerous varieties of heirloom bush, pole, and runner beans are available from local farmers or, if you’re industrious, from your own garden.
Three Places to Imbibe in Funky Marfa, Texas
Stephanie Cameron dips into the windswept town of Marfa to sip sotol, mezcal, and tequila.
Mildred Rewritten Cocktail
Substituting sotol for mezcal, this twist on Abigail Gullo’s Mildred Pierce retains a slight smokiness and is imbued with a pronounced earthy quality.
Five Picnic Salads That Won’t Wilt in Your Basket
This edition of Cooking Fresh features hearty salads that travel well and can either complement an epic feast of charcuterie boards, deviled eggs, local wine, lemonade, and sweet treats, or play the leading role.
A Sweet Stop in Chama
Briana Olson rolls through Chama and explores the magic of Wilder Bakeshop, taking away a sweet story along with exceptional pastries.
The Roads to Taos Are Low, High, and Delicious
Riding to Taos and back with Nina Katz, we get insider tips on tortas and more, including what may be the secret to one restaurant’s staying power in a tiny old town in the mountains.
Izzy’s Road Trip
Chef Israel Rivera, en route to Truth or Consequences for a healing soak, makes the case for exiting the highway both for the food and the rocks.
Mediterranean Orzo Salad
Orzo makes a great pasta salad base because it has a firm and toothsome texture (as long as you don’t overcook it), but you can substitute fusilli, orecchiette, or any other short pasta that’s in your pantry.
The Queue for the ’Cue at Mad Jack’s Mountaintop Barbecue
The real star of the show at Mad Jack’s is the brisket: unbelievably moist, almost buttery, its fat rendered down to melt-in-your-mouth, umami goodness.
Charred Corn with White Beans and Lime Crema
The addition of charred corn, cumin, lime, and paprika make this bean salad reminiscent of Mexican street corn.
Dining South on Old Route 66
Ungelbah Dávila takes us on a trip down old Route 66, finding community—and an array of eats—on the too-often-skipped path through Valencia County.
Black Rice Salad with Cherries and Plums
Black rice, often referred to as forbidden rice, has a nutty flavor and a chewy texture and is packed with fiber, protein, and antioxidants, and it pairs wonderfully with seasonal fruits.
Green Gold: Pistachios in New Mexico
Tom Hudgens tells the tale of the pistachio’s slow but sure infiltration of the Tularosa Basin and the American palate.
Pistachio Torte
This recipe was developed in the tradition of European torten, a family of cakes based on ground nuts and containing little flour or other fat.
Smashed Cucumber Chili Crisp Salad
This cucumber salad is a spin on the classic Sichuan dish—simple, spicy, crispy, savory, and slightly addictive. The combination of crunchy peanuts and chili crisp with refreshing cucumbers is delightful. However, cucumbers can be slippery, making it difficult for...
Prickly Pear Cupcakes
The flavor combos with cake and frosting are endless, but with these Prickly Pear Cupcakes, we are celebrating New Mexico’s abundant food artisans who work with this succulent treasure.
Green Bean Salad with Pickles
Common green beans are called for in this recipe, but numerous varieties of heirloom bush, pole, and runner beans are available from local farmers or, if you’re industrious, from your own garden.
