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Early Winter 2018: Roots

Early Winter 2018: Roots

The stories in this issue explore how some of our deepest culinary traditions continue to influence our food and offer important ways to envision our future. We take a look at several efforts to highlight, preserve, and reimagine Native cuisines in our state (and beyond). Chef Lois Ellen Frank educates us on her style of “new Native” cuisine, blending ancient techniques and flavors with evolving recipes. We also visit the farmers at Red Willow Farm at Taos Pueblo, who are investing in the future by growing traditional crops and training the next generation of Native food producers. Chef Myles Lucero tells us how the stories of his favorite ingredients inspire his recipes. And we look at artist and permaculturist Roxanne Swentzell’s efforts to revitalize traditions and promote nutrition in tribal communities, while encouraging everyone to tap into their local and ancestral food roots.

A Future for Blue Corn

Can the New Mexico Landrace Corn Project Facilitate an Agricultural Revival?By Michael Dax · Photos by Stephanie Cameron When Joseph Jaramillo retired from a twenty-six-year career at the Southwest Indian Polytechnic Institute, he returned to the land that...

Seed Stories

Saving the Roots of Native TruthBy Briana Olson · Photos by Douglas Merriam When I leave sculptor, seed saver, and permaculturist Roxanne Swentzell's home in Santa Clara Pueblo, my hands are so full that it's hard to open the car door. I'm trying to eat...

Eating Back to the Future

Exploring Contemporary Native American Cuisine with Chef Lois Ellen FrankBy Gabriella Marks Red Mesa Cuisine offers a culinary experience where guests and participants are educated on the history of the foods they eat and how these Native American foods...

Tarragon and Mint Ice Cream

Makes 2 pints1 large bunch fresh tarragon—mostly leaves1 large bunch fresh mint—mostly leaves2 cups whole milk1 cup heavy cream5 large egg yolks3/4 cup granulated sugarBruise tarragon and mint with the back of a chef’s knife to help release their oils....

Back to Basics

Myles Lucero Tells His Story By Michael Dax · Photos by Sergio Salvador Chef Myles Lucero of Prairie Star at the Santa Ana Pueblo.“What drove me to move spaces,” Myles Lucero says, “is [that] I’ve come to a point where I want to give back to some people...

In the last issue of edible, we explored some of the more recent migrations of plants, people, and flavors that have shaped our state’s cuisine. For this issue, we take a look at our roots. We celebrate our state’s long agricultural history, our uniquely adapted crops and wild plants, and the deeply entrenched food traditions that contribute to New Mexico’s essential culinary identity.

The stories in this issue explore how some of our deepest culinary traditions continue to influence our food and offer important ways to envision our future. We take a look at several efforts to highlight, preserve, and reimagine Native cuisines in our state (and beyond). Chef Lois Ellen Frank educates us on her style of “new Native” cuisine, blending ancient techniques and flavors with evolving recipes. We also visit the farmers at Red Willow Farm at Taos Pueblo, who are investing in the future by growing traditional crops and training the next generation of Native food producers. Chef Myles Lucero tells us how the stories of his favorite ingredients inspire his recipes. And we look at artist and permaculturist Roxanne Swentzell’s efforts to revitalize traditions and promote nutrition in tribal communities, while encouraging everyone to tap into their local and ancestral food roots.

We also go to Old Town in Albuquerque and learn how new flavors are re-energizing the food scene for locals. We visit a ranch in Santa Fe that uses cooking and the cowboy spirit to help our veterans, and we examine efforts by the New Mexico Landrace Corn Project to preserve a crop with some of the deepest roots in our region, New Mexico landrace blue corn. Finally, we learn about the history of a well-established fruit tree in our state, the apricot.

Through these stories, we are reminded that just as a tree’s roots, though underground and unseen, provide the stability and nourishment for long-term health and abundant harvests, so too does a community rely on its roots for the development of a healthy, local, place-based cuisine. In important but sometimes hard-to-see ways, our state’s deep agricultural and culinary roots continually feed and support the growing and ever-changing local food movement in New Mexico.

A Future for Blue Corn

A Future for Blue Corn

Can the New Mexico Landrace Corn Project Facilitate an Agricultural Revival?By Michael Dax · Photos by Stephanie Cameron When Joseph Jaramillo retired from a twenty-six-year career at the Southwest Indian Polytechnic Institute, he returned to the land that...

Seed Stories

Seed Stories

Saving the Roots of Native TruthBy Briana Olson · Photos by Douglas Merriam When I leave sculptor, seed saver, and permaculturist Roxanne Swentzell's home in Santa Clara Pueblo, my hands are so full that it's hard to open the car door. I'm trying to eat...

Eating Back to the Future

Eating Back to the Future

Exploring Contemporary Native American Cuisine with Chef Lois Ellen FrankBy Gabriella Marks Red Mesa Cuisine offers a culinary experience where guests and participants are educated on the history of the foods they eat and how these Native American foods...

Tarragon and Mint Ice Cream

Tarragon and Mint Ice Cream

Makes 2 pints1 large bunch fresh tarragon—mostly leaves1 large bunch fresh mint—mostly leaves2 cups whole milk1 cup heavy cream5 large egg yolks3/4 cup granulated sugarBruise tarragon and mint with the back of a chef’s knife to help release their oils....

Back to Basics

Back to Basics

Myles Lucero Tells His Story By Michael Dax · Photos by Sergio Salvador Chef Myles Lucero of Prairie Star at the Santa Ana Pueblo.“What drove me to move spaces,” Myles Lucero says, “is [that] I’ve come to a point where I want to give back to some people...

Parsley Cupcakes

Parsley Cupcakes

Parsley CupcakesMakes 15 cupcakes (prepare batter 6 to 24 hours before baking)For Cupcakes4 cups tightly packed parsley leaves, curly or flat-leaf1 cup tightly packed mint leaves3/4 cup olive oil2 cups plus 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour1 tablespoon plus 2...

Rosemary Shortbread Cookies

Rosemary Shortbread Cookies

Makes 2 dozen1 cup unsalted butter, softened1/4 cup granulated sugar, plus extra for sprinkling on cookies1/4 cup powdered sugar1/4 teaspoon salt1 cup all-purpose flour1 cup cake flour1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemaryZest of one small lemonVariety of...

An Immovable Feast

An Immovable Feast

Red Willow Farm Rooted in Tradition, Focused on the FutureBy RoseMary Diaz · Photos by Stephanie Cameron From left to right: Henrietta Gomez, board member/elder; Randon Tafoya, youth education coordinator; Janell Lujan, production manager; Krystle McCabe,...

The Locally Driven Revival of a Vital Place in New Mexico History

The Locally Driven Revival of a Vital Place in New Mexico History

By Nora Hickey · Photos by Stacey M. Adams Nestor Lopez in front of Gobble This in Old Town.On a recent morning in Albuquerque, just hours after the placid blue sky was overrun with brightly colored balloons, scores of visitors press the Old Town pavement....

Blue Corn and Thyme Cookies

Blue Corn and Thyme Cookies

Makes 2 dozen1 cup unsalted butter, softened2/3 cup light brown sugar, packed2 large eggs2 teaspoons vanilla extract1 cup blue cornmeal1 cup unbleached white flour1 teaspoon baking powder1 tablespoon plus 1/2 teaspoon finely chopped fresh thymePreheat the...

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Edible New Mexico

Edible celebrates New Mexico's food culture, season by season. We believe that knowing where our food comes from is a powerful thing. With our high-quality, aesthetically pleasing and informative publication, we inspire readers to support and celebrate the growers, producers, chefs, beverage and food artisans, and other food professionals in our community.

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