“Food has a life,” chef Jonathan Perno tells local farm advocate Sarah Wentzel-Fisher in her story for this issue—by which he doesn’t mean that carrots go to a lot of parties. What he means is that ingredients have a beginning and an end, and whether plant or animal in origin, they are worthy of respect, care, and attention. Never is this more evident than in spring, the season of seedlings, the season of savoring.
This issue of edible New Mexico is an exploration of ingredients, the core components from which food and drink are made. One writer, a student of regional wine histories, talks with local growers and winemakers about the merits of hybrid grapes—and the challenges of working with them in a region long dominated by European vines. In a story that’s equal parts restaurant news and sustainable kitchen philosophy, Wentzel-Fisher revisits an old conversation with Perno about an underappreciated culinary technique: listening. There, and again in a story that peeks behind the curtain at Leo’s in Santa Fe, we’re reminded that on top of beautiful vegetables, top-shelf spices, good fish sauce, and local lamb, the key ingredients for the making of any solid restaurant include the people.
Also using local lamb in a not-quite-local dish is Brook Brooks, who offers the story behind their recipe for a uniquely New Mexican dolma—made so, first and foremost, by the use of grape leaves trimmed from a local vineyard. We share an ode to tulsi, an herb sacred to Indian and Ayurvedic tradition that has found its way to more than one high-desert garden. Route 66 takes us to Albuquerque’s Nob Hill, where smoked beets jazz up tostadas and the carne adovada chilaquiles never get old, and the latest edition of Cooking Fresh unabashedly celebrates an alternately loved and loathed ingredient: the mushroom. Rounding out the issue, Nina Katz tunes in to one of the newer trends in coffee and finds that co-fermentation, too, derives as much from human partnerships as from pairing honey with beans.
If there’s an ingredient common to all these recipes and stories, it’s passion. They are not about trying to please everyone; instead, the words and photos here prove that sometimes the most beautiful gifts are those given to the world by people bold enough to pursue what they love and value. As the growing season begins, we feel fortunate to be in the midst of such gifts.
“Food has a life,” chef Jonathan Perno tells local farm advocate Sarah Wentzel-Fisher in her story for this issue—by which he doesn’t mean that carrots go to a lot of parties. What he means is that ingredients have a beginning and an end, and whether plant or animal in origin, they are worthy of respect, care, and attention. Never is this more evident than in spring, the season of seedlings, the season of savoring.
This issue of edible New Mexico is an exploration of ingredients, the core components from which food and drink are made. One writer, a student of regional wine histories, talks with local growers and winemakers about the merits of hybrid grapes—and the challenges of working with them in a region long dominated by European vines. In a story that’s equal parts restaurant news and sustainable kitchen philosophy, Wentzel-Fisher revisits an old conversation with Perno about an underappreciated culinary technique: listening. There, and again in a story that peeks behind the curtain at Leo’s in Santa Fe, we’re reminded that on top of beautiful vegetables, top-shelf spices, good fish sauce, and local lamb, the key ingredients for the making of any solid restaurant include the people.
Also using local lamb in a not-quite-local dish is Brook Brooks, who offers the story behind their recipe for a uniquely New Mexican dolma—made so, first and foremost, by the use of grape leaves trimmed from a local vineyard. We share an ode to tulsi, an herb sacred to Indian and Ayurvedic tradition that has found its way to more than one high-desert garden. Route 66 takes us to Albuquerque’s Nob Hill, where smoked beets jazz up tostadas and the carne adovada chilaquiles never get old, and the latest edition of Cooking Fresh unabashedly celebrates an alternately loved and loathed ingredient: the mushroom. Rounding out the issue, Nina Katz tunes in to one of the newer trends in coffee and finds that co-fermentation, too, derives as much from human partnerships as from pairing honey with beans.
If there’s an ingredient common to all these recipes and stories, it’s passion. They are not about trying to please everyone; instead, the words and photos here prove that sometimes the most beautiful gifts are those given to the world by people bold enough to pursue what they love and value. As the growing season begins, we feel fortunate to be in the midst of such gifts.
Neon Nights in Nob Hill
By Robin Babb Photos by Stephanie CameronAlthough historic Route 66 spanned the entire state, I’d argue that it’s nowhere more visible in the present day than in the Nob Hill neighborhood of Albuquerque. Neon-lit motels and diners once lined the street along this...
Roasted and Pickled Mushrooms
This recipe celebrates mixing mushroom varieties for layers of texture and flavor.
Limited-Edition Coffee, Long-term Partnerships
Nina Katz tunes in to one of the newer trends in coffee and finds that co-fermentation derives as much from human partnerships as from pairing honey with beans.
Inventing a New Mexican Dolma
Learn to create a one-of-a-kind New Mexican Dolma recipe that combines vibrant ingredients and robust flavors.
THE RAW & THE SAUCED
At Leo’s in Santa Fe, we’re reminded that on top of beautiful vegetables, top-shelf spices, and local lamb, the key ingredients for the making of any solid restaurant include the people
Sautéed Garlicky Ginger Mushrooms
Just about any mushroom mix will work in this aromatic and umami-forward Sautéed Garlicky Ginger Mushrooms recipe.
Tulsi Ushers In the Sensation of Spring
Sudha Rani Kailas shares an ode to tulsi, an herb sacred to Indian and Ayurvedic tradition that has found its way to more than one high-desert garden.
Roasted Mushroom Salad
In this warm salad, chestnut mushrooms bring a naturally nutty sweetness, which is balanced by charred shallots and balsamic vinegar.
Pan-Fried Oyster Mushrooms
Oyster mushrooms are ideal here for their tender, meaty texture and ability to soak up bold spices.
History and Hybridity
In a brief history of local grape growing and winemaking, Joe Scala talks with local growers and winemakers about the merits of hybrid grapes—and the challenges of working with them in a region long dominated by European vines.
Blue Corn and Red Chile Posole
Whether born and raised in New Mexico or a recent transplant, everyone with ties to the Land of Enchantment should try their hand at making a pot of posole.
Letting Ingredients Lead
In a story that’s equal parts restaurant news and kitchen philosophy, Sarah Wentzel-Fisher revisits an old conversation with Chef Jonathan Perno about an underappreciated culinary technique: listening.
Radish Carpaccio
This Italian antipasto is traditionally served with paper-thin raw meat and a light dressive, but the preparation can also be used to showcase a single vegetable—and what better than this red-hued radish?
Neon Nights in Nob Hill
By Robin Babb Photos by Stephanie CameronAlthough historic Route 66 spanned the entire state, I’d argue that it’s nowhere more visible in the present day than in the Nob Hill neighborhood of Albuquerque. Neon-lit motels and diners once lined the street along this...
Roasted and Pickled Mushrooms
This recipe celebrates mixing mushroom varieties for layers of texture and flavor.
Limited-Edition Coffee, Long-term Partnerships
Nina Katz tunes in to one of the newer trends in coffee and finds that co-fermentation derives as much from human partnerships as from pairing honey with beans.
Inventing a New Mexican Dolma
Learn to create a one-of-a-kind New Mexican Dolma recipe that combines vibrant ingredients and robust flavors.
THE RAW & THE SAUCED
At Leo’s in Santa Fe, we’re reminded that on top of beautiful vegetables, top-shelf spices, and local lamb, the key ingredients for the making of any solid restaurant include the people
Sautéed Garlicky Ginger Mushrooms
Just about any mushroom mix will work in this aromatic and umami-forward Sautéed Garlicky Ginger Mushrooms recipe.
Tulsi Ushers In the Sensation of Spring
Sudha Rani Kailas shares an ode to tulsi, an herb sacred to Indian and Ayurvedic tradition that has found its way to more than one high-desert garden.
Roasted Mushroom Salad
In this warm salad, chestnut mushrooms bring a naturally nutty sweetness, which is balanced by charred shallots and balsamic vinegar.
Pan-Fried Oyster Mushrooms
Oyster mushrooms are ideal here for their tender, meaty texture and ability to soak up bold spices.
History and Hybridity
In a brief history of local grape growing and winemaking, Joe Scala talks with local growers and winemakers about the merits of hybrid grapes—and the challenges of working with them in a region long dominated by European vines.
Blue Corn and Red Chile Posole
Whether born and raised in New Mexico or a recent transplant, everyone with ties to the Land of Enchantment should try their hand at making a pot of posole.
Letting Ingredients Lead
In a story that’s equal parts restaurant news and kitchen philosophy, Sarah Wentzel-Fisher revisits an old conversation with Chef Jonathan Perno about an underappreciated culinary technique: listening.
Radish Carpaccio
This Italian antipasto is traditionally served with paper-thin raw meat and a light dressive, but the preparation can also be used to showcase a single vegetable—and what better than this red-hued radish?


































