A Northern New Mexico Hideaway

Discovering the Wines of the San Juan 

By Michele Padberg
Photos by Stephanie Cameron

Poised at the farthest reaches of northern New Mexico, surrounded by dramatic desert, is Wines of the San Juan winery. Nestled at the base of imposing sandstone bluffs that glow red at sunset, this lush oasis is well worth the journey to find it. 

The story of Wines of the San Juan starts with a cowboy from Durango, Colorado. David Arnold’s journey is unlike that of any other winemaker, with his careers evolving and changing as he and his wife, Marcia Arnold, grew their family.

From being a smoke jumper to training horses to having a dairy farm, David has reinvented himself many times over. In 1999, with no formal education in winemaking or viticulture, he remade himself, once again, as a winemaker, and, with Marcia’s help, transformed the unyielding plot of land where the winery is located into a magical retreat. They planted a five-acre vineyard and crossed their fingers. Meanwhile, Marcia’s eclectic eye for colors, textures, and layering design elements resulted in an atmosphere no one can resist. 

Left: Head winemaker Josh Arnold and his wife, Brittny Arnold. Right: Refosco Rosé and Lavender wines. 

Originally selling wine out of their single-wide trailer home in the shade of enormous cottonwood trees, the Arnolds crafted a lifestyle, not simply a winery. As their business grew, they harvested and hand-milled all the wood for each addition. Relaxing into the beautiful expanse of the scenic property, you can see, and more importantly feel, the attention to detail and the patience they invested to lovingly create the world around you. With today’s aesthetics, where rusted metal and clever kitsch are idealized, you might think Wines of the San Juan planned this look, but they aren’t trying to be anything other than themselves; there is no gimmick. They are what they appear to be, which for me is charm personified. The old trailer, now filled with wine apparel and fun trinkets, is still used as the tasting room in cold months, and is surrounded by a porch with gardens where wine is served the rest of the year. Mismatched tables and chairs are tucked in here and there, each one creating its own unique hideaway and giving the space a choose-your-own-adventure feeling that might make you want to try out every single spot. Grass stretches out in all directions, mingling with flower-lined paths that lead to a back pond and a peacock pen. 

As irresistible as the grounds of the winery are, it is the wine being produced there that truly deserves attention. Josh Arnold, the Arnolds’ son and head winemaker at Wines of the San Juan since 2013, grew up in the winery, and, like many New Mexico winemakers, is self-taught. Josh is meticulous, curious, and passionate about learning every aspect of crafting a beautiful wine, or as he puts it “stopping time.” He says, “You are popping a moment in time [when you open a wine]; that’s what happens here.” And with his wines, it certainly is a moment you never want to end. On a late-spring visit, having climbed into a giant chair crafted of reclaimed wood, I found myself sipping their Library 2010 Tempranillo, its maturity showing with raisined fruit notes, surprising bright fresh berry on the palate, and perfect acidity to balance its moody tannins, and watching as my husband and teenage daughter played on the swings that dangle from the network of branches overhead, appreciating the ease and serenity that takes over at the Arnolds’ place. 

Grounds at Wines of the San Juan.

Brittny, Josh’s wife, has assisted in marketing and publicity for the winery, including redesigning the labels with some of Josh’s incredible artwork. Her fiery personality coupled with a clear vision for the future makes for dynamic branding, while the wines stem from Josh’s artistry. There’s the Refosco Rosé (bright and flirty with a floral note and citrus finish), the Tribulation Reserve (a rich, seductive red) and the Tribulation Rosé (a delightful rosé that harnesses the power of baco noir), as well as the masterful Cabernet Sauvignon (made from juice split into two different lots, aged with distinctive oak treatments, and then blended back together), which I sampled from the barrel. These are professional, serious wines without any arrogance or snobbery. The fruit comes predominantly from vineyards in Deming, but it is important to note that the French hybrids planted in the winery’s Estate Vineyard have been teased into incredible wines, a talent that is rarely seen with non-vinifera grapes. Josh’s wines are clean (without faults), with intricate layers of complexity that can be easily enjoyed by the casual connoisseur yet also stand up to wine judge scrutiny.

Wines of the San Juan offers a diverse selection of wines with something for everyone (including lovers of lavender!), and for those who prefer malt and hops, they serve a variety of New Mexico beers. They have an incredible partnership with Pioche Food Group, offering wine pairings with the group’s frequent multicourse Native American dinners in the area, not to mention live music on Sundays and a summer schedule of festivals and events right at the winery. Their location also provides delightful escape from the blistering heat of southern and central New Mexico, making Wines of the San Juan a must-do staycation destination!

One hour from Durango, Colorado, thirty-eight minutes from Farmington, and only seventeen minutes from the nearest town of Bloomfield, you have the option to stay in a nearby hotel and make a day trip out of visiting the winery. Your visit should also include seeing incredible stone arches, visiting historic sites with wonderfully preserved petroglyphs, playing in Navajo Lake, or cruising the desert on mountain bikes. My favorite approach is to trailer to the winery and camp for a night or two (full hookups are available and affordable). This area happens to also be one of the top five places in the world for fly-fishing (clue to the wine label imagery), and the dive bar down the street, The Sportsman, is where I had one of the best green chile cheeseburgers in my life. Pro tip: make sure to order the swoon-worthy tater tots instead of french fries.

233 Hwy 511, Blanco, 505-632-0879, winesofthesanjuan.com