By Michele Padberg
The wines of Alsace, France, are some of the most dynamic wines in the world. The heroic viticulture of the region creates stunning views with the near-vertical slopes. Nestled in the north of this valley is the charming city of Strasbourg. Settled early by Celts and later by Romans, the city has shifted between French and German rule for hundreds of years, resulting in an irresistible combination of architecture, food, and culture. Strasbourg is home to the world’s largest and most prestigious 100 percent white wine competition, Mondial des Vins Blancs Strasbourg, now in its twenty-sixth year. A short train ride away is the Université de Haute-Alsace, boasting the only technical viticulture program in France. From an independent visit to Le Comptoir de Vignerons Alsaciens, a tasting room and wine shop showcasing local wineries, to an intimate tour guided by the Strasbourg-raised, Santa Fe–based owner of Délices & Découvertes, there are many ways to experience this city. Here are three of my favorite places to drink in the Strasbourg view.
Photo by Daniele Raspini
Riesling at Restaurant Caveau du Gurtlerhoft with Traditional Choucroute
This ancient cellar turned restaurant sits across the square from the magnificent Notre-Dame cathedral. If you have not experienced Alsatian rieslings, I promise you the love affair of your wine life when you do. Pair it with choucroute, a platter of meats served over sauerkraut. This Alsatian cabbage dish is not the traditional sour stuff you may be used to, but rather a delightful, delicate addition to each bite of smoked meat. Dry riesling sings in this salty pairing while you soak in the thirteenth-century charm of your surroundings.
Photo by Daniele Raspini
Pinot Noir at Café Rohan with Tarte Flambée (Flammkuchen)
While known for white wines, Alsace also makes unique pinot noirs. Seated on the terrace of Café Rohan on the Place du Marché-aux-Cochons-de-Lait, it will be hard to decide if you are squealing over the beauty of your surroundings, the wine in your glass, or the tarte flambée on your plate. With its crispy thin crust, crème fraȋche base, caramelized onions, and ham and/or mushrooms, this regional wood-fired flatbread is a staple for locals and tourists alike. Sipping on a delicate, dazzling pinot noir with this simple, tasty dish in this idyllic nook is the epitome of happiness.
Photo by Dr. Luboš Bárta
Wine Tasting at Cave Historique des Hospices de Strasbourg
Alsace wines range from great cheap finds to grand cru elite status. To explore many at once (and glimpse a barrel containing wine from 1472), visit Cave Historique des Hospices. Created in 1395, when wine was considered medicine, the underground cellars were managed by the hospital for several hundred years and renovated in the 1990s. A tour and tasting includes a wild history lesson on the importance of wine to Strasbourg and the cellar’s fascinating connection to the hospital above. This pairing is maybe the best of all pairings, wine with more wine!
Michele Padberg
Michele Padberg is an advanced sommelier, international wine judge, and co-owner of Vivác Winery. She has taught master classes, hosted VIP tasting experiences, and lectured at the American Wine Society National Conferences, the University of Upper Alsace in France, and the Association of Wine Educators in the UK. Co-author of the e-bookThe New Normal in the Wine World, Padberg also wrote forSommeliers Internationalmagazine from 2019 to 2022 and has covered wine for a number of newspapers and blogs. She loves to travel and explore new wine regions, often with her family in tow. Find her atwinefirst.net.
