New Mexico has character. The state has long attracted a certain flavor of transplant—someone willing to live up a dirt road outside Taos that requires hauling in water; someone keen to grow vegetables on the edge of the Chihuahuan Desert—and, just as often, those born and raised here come from a long line accustomed to inhabiting hard, high places. They planted orchards, ran cattle in the mountains, threaded rivers into a precious network of ditches to grow beans and chile at all altitudes. But they also traded. Since forever, New Mexicans have balanced a deeply (even topographically) ingrained drive toward self-sufficiency with a dependence on people and goods from beyond their communities.
This issue of edible New Mexico is dedicated to food access: not only where food comes from but how food flows and whom it feeds. In one feature, checking in with food banks, pantries, and hubs at a precarious time, Sarah Mock finds people working to develop more holistic modes of distributing food to those who need it. In another, Emily Arasim Beltrán shares what she’s learned from a deep dive into the past, present, and—hopefully—the future of local grocery stores in rural northern New Mexico. Traveling to Shiprock, Ungelbah Dávila visits with a visionary duo who started their own nonprofit in order to build on—and share—their success by training other Native farmers and food entrepreneurs. We also learn about a young project bringing people together around the garden on Santa Fe’s Southside, and we get to know a few of the farms who serve the state’s schools and senior centers, from Bloomfield to Albuquerque.
Turning to the table, we share one chef’s plea to give people who cook for a living the chance to eat at top-tier restaurants. We dine out in Gallup, and determine that, whether traveling I-40 or Route 66, the town on the edge of Indian Country should be a mandatory lunch stop. For home cooks, we offer winter recipes for dishes inspired, like all true comfort food, by spinning and stretching whatever’s at hand.
Wherever the road takes you this year, we hope you’ll pause, on occasion, to appreciate the New Mexicans who devote their lives to feeding their communities: whether from a kitchen, a farm, a food bank, a grocery store counter, or along the often invisible lines of distribution that crisscross the state. And if you can, in one way or another, why not lend a hand?
New Mexico has character. The state has long attracted a certain flavor of transplant—someone willing to live up a dirt road outside Taos that requires hauling in water; someone keen to grow vegetables on the edge of the Chihuahuan Desert—and, just as often, those born and raised here come from a long line accustomed to inhabiting hard, high places. They planted orchards, ran cattle in the mountains, threaded rivers into a precious network of ditches to grow beans and chile at all altitudes. But they also traded. Since forever, New Mexicans have balanced a deeply (even topographically) ingrained drive toward self-sufficiency with a dependence on people and goods from beyond their communities.
This issue of edible New Mexico is dedicated to food access: not only where food comes from but how food flows and whom it feeds. In one feature, checking in with food banks, pantries, and hubs at a precarious time, Sarah Mock finds people working to develop more holistic modes of distributing food to those who need it. In another, Emily Arasim Beltrán shares what she’s learned from a deep dive into the past, present, and—hopefully—the future of local grocery stores in rural northern New Mexico. Traveling to Shiprock, Ungelbah Dávila visits with a visionary duo who started their own nonprofit in order to build on—and share—their success by training other Native farmers and food entrepreneurs. We also learn about a young project bringing people together around the garden on Santa Fe’s Southside, and we get to know a few of the farms who serve the state’s schools and senior centers, from Bloomfield to Albuquerque.
Turning to the table, we share one chef’s plea to give people who cook for a living the chance to eat at top-tier restaurants. We dine out in Gallup, and determine that, whether traveling I-40 or Route 66, the town on the edge of Indian Country should be a mandatory lunch stop. For home cooks, we offer winter recipes for dishes inspired, like all true comfort food, by spinning and stretching whatever’s at hand.
Wherever the road takes you this year, we hope you’ll pause, on occasion, to appreciate the New Mexicans who devote their lives to feeding their communities: whether from a kitchen, a farm, a food bank, a grocery store counter, or along the often invisible lines of distribution that crisscross the state. And if you can, in one way or another, why not lend a hand?
Gallup Gems
Briana Olson dines out in Gallup, and determines that the town on the edge of Indian Country should be a mandatory lunch stop.
Rye Spaetzle, Root Veggies, and Gremolata
Spaetzle—tiny, rustic dumplings made in kitchens from Germany to Slovenia and meaning “little
sparrow”—are one of the most forgiving, versatile varieties of pasta you can make and hold up beautifully for meal prep.
Lessons from La Milpa
Madeleine Bavley shares lessons from La Milpa Comunitaria, a young project bringing people together around the garden on Santa Fe’s Southside.
Loaded Sweet Potatoes with Harissa, Lentils, and Mushrooms
These roasted sweet potatoes are filled with a fragrant, spice-forward blend of mushrooms, lentils, and harissa, brightened with lemon, olives, and warm spices.
The Power & Possibility of Our Rural Grocery Stores
Emily Arasim Beltrán shares what she’s learned from a deep dive into the past, present, and—hopefully—the future of local grocery stores in rural northern New Mexico.
Quesadillas with Greens and Beans
Words and Photo by Stephanie Cameron Serves 4 Hearty greens—whether collards, chard, mustard, turnip, or dandelion—cook down into a deeply savory, nutrient-dense quesadilla filling that holds up beautifully in the fridge. Prepare a large batch ahead for quick assembly...
Meet the Farmers Growing New Mexico Grown
Sophie Putka sits down with three suppliers for New Mexico Grown to learn about their path to agriculture and the ongoing challenges in getting their produce to the people who need it most.
Chile-Sumac Meatballs and Sauce
These Chile-Sumac Meatballs and Sauce deliver high-impact flavor on a modest budget.
On Hunger’s Cutting Edge
Checking in with food banks, pantries, and hubs at a precarious time, Sarah Mock finds people working to develop more holistic modes of distributing food to those who need it.
Pomegranate and Balsamic Shrub
Shrubs are one of the easiest nonalcoholic cocktail bases to make and a great way to preserve seasonal produce.
A Seat at the Table
Chef Israel Rivera offers a plea to give people who cook for a living the chance to eat at top-tier restaurants.
Bean Tortilla Soup
This vibrant tortilla soup turns your pot of cooked pintos into an entirely new meal that can be stretched into multiple meals.
Growing the Next Generation of Farmers
Traveling to Shiprock, Ungelbah Dávila visits with a visionary duo who started their own nonprofit in order to build on—and share—their success by training other Native farmers and food entrepreneurs.
Gallup Gems
Briana Olson dines out in Gallup, and determines that the town on the edge of Indian Country should be a mandatory lunch stop.
Rye Spaetzle, Root Veggies, and Gremolata
Spaetzle—tiny, rustic dumplings made in kitchens from Germany to Slovenia and meaning “little
sparrow”—are one of the most forgiving, versatile varieties of pasta you can make and hold up beautifully for meal prep.
Lessons from La Milpa
Madeleine Bavley shares lessons from La Milpa Comunitaria, a young project bringing people together around the garden on Santa Fe’s Southside.
Loaded Sweet Potatoes with Harissa, Lentils, and Mushrooms
These roasted sweet potatoes are filled with a fragrant, spice-forward blend of mushrooms, lentils, and harissa, brightened with lemon, olives, and warm spices.
The Power & Possibility of Our Rural Grocery Stores
Emily Arasim Beltrán shares what she’s learned from a deep dive into the past, present, and—hopefully—the future of local grocery stores in rural northern New Mexico.
Quesadillas with Greens and Beans
Words and Photo by Stephanie Cameron Serves 4 Hearty greens—whether collards, chard, mustard, turnip, or dandelion—cook down into a deeply savory, nutrient-dense quesadilla filling that holds up beautifully in the fridge. Prepare a large batch ahead for quick...
Meet the Farmers Growing New Mexico Grown
Sophie Putka sits down with three suppliers for New Mexico Grown to learn about their path to agriculture and the ongoing challenges in getting their produce to the people who need it most.
Chile-Sumac Meatballs and Sauce
These Chile-Sumac Meatballs and Sauce deliver high-impact flavor on a modest budget.
On Hunger’s Cutting Edge
Checking in with food banks, pantries, and hubs at a precarious time, Sarah Mock finds people working to develop more holistic modes of distributing food to those who need it.
Pomegranate and Balsamic Shrub
Shrubs are one of the easiest nonalcoholic cocktail bases to make and a great way to preserve seasonal produce.
A Seat at the Table
Chef Israel Rivera offers a plea to give people who cook for a living the chance to eat at top-tier restaurants.
Bean Tortilla Soup
This vibrant tortilla soup turns your pot of cooked pintos into an entirely new meal that can be stretched into multiple meals.
Growing the Next Generation of Farmers
Traveling to Shiprock, Ungelbah Dávila visits with a visionary duo who started their own nonprofit in order to build on—and share—their success by training other Native farmers and food entrepreneurs.
