LOCAL HERO: RESTAURANT, ALBUQUERQUE
An Interview with Steve Riley, Owner and Chef
Photos by Stephanie Cameron
Red chile–glazed, smoked half chicken with pinto beans, cabbage slaw, pepita crema, and duck fat flour tortillas.
Mesa Provisions opened to immediate acclaim in Albuquerque’s Nob Hill in 2021, in the same neighborhood where owner and chef Steve Riley spent his twenties practicing bass. The restaurant’s menu is seriously seasonal, with spring dishes like asparagus vichyssoise and radish salad offered alongside year-round specialties such as the smoked chicken with duck fat tortillas. Born in Albuquerque, Riley started his culinary journey in his hometown in 1999 at the erstwhile Le Cafe Miche. There, working with executive chef Jennifer James, he was introduced to the world of fine cooking. Upon relocating to Southern California in 2004, Chef Riley worked at Chez Melange, a long-standing favorite of South Bay diners. In 2010, he partnered with Chez Melange’s executive chef Robert Bell to create the Italian bistro Mama Terano in Palos Verdes. Seven years later, Riley returned home to New Mexico, where he became executive chef at Farm & Table before opening Mesa Provisions.
The atmosphere at Mesa Provisions is elegant, understated, and intimate without feeling crowded. What was the process for designing the space, and do you envision staying there?
Thank you. We wanted a clean and minimal feel for the space when we first opened. We are continuing to grow, evolving along the way and making upgrades when we can. We don’t have any current plans to move but you never know what the future holds.
Your food has been described as “country and southwestern”; you call it Southwest-inspired. Any particular meals or experiences that have influenced the creation and evolution of this dynamic menu?
I love to cook all types of different cuisines. Food is about connection in so many ways. I love to find similarities in cuisines and connect them, breaking those boundaries yet hopefully maintaining the integrity. The term Southwest-inspired is really a result of a need to put a label on what we do at Mesa Provisions, and every day I am inspired by everything around me here.
Talk about your commitment to seasonality and local sourcing. Who instilled this in you, and what drives you to sustain it?
The time I spent working in LA taught me how important seasonality and fresh ingredients are. Not only can you taste the difference, you can feel it.
Left: Owner and chef, Steve Riley. Top right: Mushroom enchilada with green chile cream, cotija cheese, pickled onion, and cilantro. Bottom right: Biscuits with green chile, sharp cheddar, and red chile butter.
What ingredient or dish are you fired up about right now? Is there something special you’re envisioning for the peak of summer?
Our watermelon aguachile. Last summer we served this dish that balances sweet, sour, spicy, and salty in a beautiful tribute to summer, and it will soon return to the menu.
For a restaurant with dry-aged rib eye on the menu, your attention to vegetables is remarkable. How do you balance a plate and what do you consider when developing plant-based dishes?
I love vegetables just as much as I love a good steak or burger. But they require taking the time to prepare them properly and pair them with ingredients that make them shine.
Your wine list leans French and Italian, and your draft beer menu is entirely local. Who selects the restaurant’s beverages, and what’s your personal favorite?
Our amazing beer and wine list is curated by Amy Haas of Palate. She does an amazing job. I actually do not drink.
Who makes the playlist for your dining room?
I make the playlist with some help from staff.
What are your favorite lunch spots in Albuquerque?
I have absolutely been loving what Buen Provecho ABQ has been doing. All their dishes are so amazing.
Anything else you’d like to share with edible readers?
Thank you, Albuquerque!
3120 Central SE, Albuquerque, 505-494-5264, mesaprovisions.com
