FOOD WITH SOUL ON THE MOTHER ROAD

Words and Photos by Ungelbah Dávila

I’ve been told that it is totally normal to shoulder shimmy when you’ve just tasted something delightful. I’ve done it before—a little wiggle when my partner pulls something perfect off the grill—but it was at a breakfast back East with my best friend that I learned the full-body reaction has a name. The involuntary shoulder shake, “yummm” to the sky, and hand flutter near the face—all of it, apparently, is just what happens when your taste buds hit something special.

That same reflex followed me to a lesser-traveled stretch of Historic Route 66 in western New Mexico, where two stops—one rooted in scratch-made comfort food, the other in smoke, steel, and blues—delivered meals worth moving your shoulders over.

Thatz Good Eden

What started as a bright yellow food truck in Albuquerque has taken root as a brick-and-mortar favorite in Milan. A hop and skip westward found me, one fine Sunday, at the counter of Thatz Good Eden. I was met by a team of women who immediately gave vibes of nurturing, fun, and family. We laughed together before I took the first bite.

Thatz Good Eden calls its menu multicultural, which is an on-the-nose way of saying that this crew is all about down-home cooking and can serve up anything from a burger to spaghetti to Haitian barbecue, from Caribbean stew and Southern fried fish to meat and cheese empanadas. These women are not intimidated by a recipe because they are working off spice, soul, and sisterhood.

Owner Nakia Williams launched her food truck in early 2024, using it as a way to introduce her food and to build a following. “That’s really how we got our foot in the door,” she said. “We got a really good response. People loved the food, and we started getting invited to events.” Customer enthusiasm took their food truck from Albuquerque to the Grants area, where they eventually found the brick-and-mortar restaurant space in Milan that they moved into in 2025.

In the kitchen, said Chef Faith Chapman, their approach is all about doing things from scratch. “We peel and cut our potatoes and blanch them ourselves. Everything is made in-house,” Chapman told me, pointing to a plate of hand-cut carne asada fries. “Our steak is marinated. Even our pico de gallo is made by us.” Some recipes stay under wraps. “The sausage cheese sauce—we’re not going to tell you about that because it’s secret,” she added, laughing.

Chapman said the menu reflects a mix of influences, including dishes rarely found in western New Mexico. “The New York City chop cheese—we brought that out here,” she said. Other dishes lean into Caribbean flavors. “Our Caribbean stew beef has that Jamaican-style green seasoning,” Chapman said. “It’s cooked down and finished with a habanero butter. Then you’ve got cabbage with vegetables, garlic, and steamed white rice to balance the plate and cleanse your palate.” The Haitian barbecue, slow cooked with epis, “has a little kick to it,” Chapman said. Sides are just as carefully crafted. “Baked mac and cheese—three cheeses, technically four, finished with parmigiano,” she said. “Potato salad, fried fish with our own seasoning blend—we do it all ourselves.”

Junkyard on 66

In Grants, the former Oscar’s Auto Salvage has transformed into one of the most unique stops along Route 66: a place where smoked meats, craft beer, and classic cars come together in a garage where locals still stop in for car parts.

At Junkyard on 66, owner Henry Lackey has built more than a brewery—he’s created an experience rooted in personal taste, local history, and a bit of defiance. “I wanted something that I like,” Lackey said. “Every brewery I went to had rock music and pizza, and I like neither of those things. I love the blues, so we only play the blues. I love barbecue, so we only serve barbecue.” The kitchen centers on three staples: pulled pork, pulled chicken, and brisket, all smoked on-site for up to twenty hours.

Lackey’s favorite? The Junkyard Sandwich, a combination of pulled pork and brisket, often paired with one of the brewery’s signature beers. With the exception of the U-92, a nod to the area’s history of uranium mining, all the Junkyard’s beers lean into the automotive theme, with names inspired by engine and car parts. The light, easy-drinking Junkyard Lager has been on tap since day one. Other offerings include the Rack and Pinion, a slightly sweet brew with chocolate and caramel notes, and the Piston Colada, a tropical Belgian-style beer that Lackey said sparkles with coconut and pineapple notes.

Lackey had never brewed beer before deciding to open a brewery, jumping in with a large system and learning as he went. “I read all the books,” he said. “But none of them told me how to mill grain properly.” Thankfully, an experienced local brewer showed up on brew day to make sure he didn’t ruin his first batch. “It’s a tight-knit community,” he said. “People help each other.”

Originally opened by Oscar Nettles as a junkyard, the property served locals who repaired their own vehicles using salvaged parts. “I wasn’t willing to just get rid of that history,” Lackey said. Today, classic cars, including Mustangs, Corvettes, and even a vintage limousine, are scattered throughout the property, giving visitors a close-up of Route 66 Americana.

Junkyard on 66 has grown into a destination, drawing visitors from around the world. “We get a lot of Australians, Europeans, New Zealanders, Canadians,” Lackey said. Locals, though fewer, remain an important part of the atmosphere. The venue also doubles as a live music space, occasionally hosting major acts such as Los Lonely Boys.

“You can’t buy that,” Lackey said. “Talking to people, meeting characters—that’s part of the experience.”

This series is brought to you by the New Mexico Tourism Department.