Words and Photos by Stephanie Cameron

We want to empower our readers so you can cook up any combination of things you have in your pantry and fridge, along with finds from the many farmers markets still bursting with produce. In this edition of Cooking Fresh, we are diving into stir-frying. This technique is easy to use in the fall and you’ll get all your nutrients in one meal.

Stir-frying is similar to sautéing but amplified—the heat is higher, and the action is faster, keeping the food in constant motion. Stir-frying involves specific hand skills that emphasize the rapid movement of food through different heat zones, all in an effort to regulate heat and maximize flavor. The pan commonly used is a round-sided wok, allowing the food to be continuously turned, tossed, and stirred. Butter is not used because it burns easily at high heat. Food is cut into small, thin pieces for fast-paced cooking. If uncomfortable flipping food in your pan, use a proper spatula to agitate the food continuously.

In the midst of a lot of debate about stir-frying techniques, we looked for guidance to the expert J. Kenji López-Alt, author of The Food Lab, and his new book, The Wok. Although the wok is very versatile, we are focusing on the art of the stir-fry specifically. López-Alt says, “Stir-frying is fun. If you enjoy activities that are simple enough for a first-timer to get good results, but also reward you greatly as you practice and improve your skills, you may think it is fun as well.” If you get hooked on cooking in your wok as we did, we highly recommend geeking out with López-Alt in The Wok and learning everything from velveting your meat to mastering wok hei (the breath of a wok). He encourages you to practice your tossing technique with uncooked beans in a cold wok—it actually helps.

We are including some notes on tools and ingredients, execution, and some simple recipes. Having these basics of stir-frying in your toolbox and letting your creativity be your guide means you are sure to have fun.

Stir-Fry Recipes: Skirt Steak and Udon and Veggies and Rice Noodles and four Stir-Fry Sauces.

The Tools

The Wok
A seasoned wok—one that has had many layers of a protective coating of polymerized oil built on top—is the choice recommended by many professional chefs when stir-frying. For most Western stoves you will want a flat-bottom wok, not one with a rounded bottom.

Wok Spatula (Chuan)
This shovel-like utensil is designed to follow the curvature of the wok. It’s thin enough to get under all ingredients, to scoop up and redistribute the food. A thin fish spatula can work as a substitute.

Wok Ladle (Hoak)
Like the wok spatula, the wok ladle’s shape fits the wok’s curvature. It is essential for adding oil, stock, and liquids and can be used in conjunction with the wok spatula to toss ingredients. A regular ladle can be substituted for adding oil and liquids to the wok but is not suitable for tossing.

Alternatives to the Wok

López-Alt argues that a wok makes a superior stir-fry, but if you aren’t ready to add one to your arsenal yet, there are other options.

Stainless Steel Skillets have slanted sides similar to a wok, though the sides aren’t as high. It is crucial not to overload the pan, and ingredients should fit in a single layer, so you may need to cook in batches. 

Cast-Iron Skillets hold heat well and have the added benefit of seasoning, the same as their counterpart, the wok. 

Titanium Stainless withstands incredibly high heat. In the edible test kitchen, the Hestan NanoBond molecular titanium stainless steel chef’s pan is my favorite substitute for the wok. It has high sides and withstands temperatures up to a scorching 1050°F. The only downside is that it is 100 percent nonreactive, so it lacks the benefits of seasoning.

Nonstick is a no go. It cannot withstand high temperatures without a chemical breakdown of coatings, which can be toxic.

The Components

Oils
Any fat with a high smoke point is ideal. Options include peanut oil, canola oil, corn oil, avocado oil, rice bran oil, grapeseed oil, sunflower oil, safflower oil, and animal fats like lard. Sesame oil is an excellent addition to flavor but should be used sparingly as part of a stir-fry sauce or drizzled at the end of cooking.

Aromatics
Stir-fry aromatics can include garlic, ginger, and green onions, but fresh chiles, lemongrass, herbs, or preserved and pickled vegetables are also good options. They flavor the oil in the early stages of the stir-fry.

Vegetables
The key to successfully stir-frying vegetables is selecting vegetables with similar cook times and cutting them to a uniform size to ensure even cooking. You can combine your vegetables with a fungus during cooking because mushrooms cook through quickly but never really become overcooked. Vegetables should always be dry before they hit the wok and must be stirred often to cook through quickly without any part getting mushy. Some vegetables great for stir-frying are mushrooms, carrots, broccoli, white or yellow onions, bell peppers (any color), green beans or long beans, green onion, and cabbage. More tender veggies that can be added at the end of stir-frying are sugar snap peas, bean sprouts, bok choy, and other greens.

Proteins
In general, meats need to be sliced and marinated before cooking. Like vegetables, the pieces should be roughly the same size. Chicken thighs or breasts, ground beef or pork, flank steak, and shrimp are all options for stir-fries. Stir proteins minimally to maintain undisturbed contact with the hot pan and acquire a seared exterior.

Tofu is an excellent protein option for vegetarian stir-fries. For the most straightforward approach, select firm tofu; drain and squeeze out as much water as possible. Slice into 1- or 2-inch cubes or rectangles, about 1-inch thick; pieces should be uniform in size. Fry in batches, cooking in a single layer and turning as few times as possible, until golden. Drain on paper towels and remove excess oil before returning to the wok and adding sauce.

Pantry Essentials for Sauces and Marinades

Sauces are where the magic happens for stir-fries, and the combinations are endless. Keep in mind that a proper sauce for stir-fries combines something salty with something a little bit sweet, some acid, and maybe some heat. Having a well-stocked pantry gives you the ability to whip up something great using ingredients on hand.

  • Soy sauce adds saltiness and umami to the sauce; swap for tamari or coconut aminos.
  • Miso is salty and savory and can range from funky to sweet.
  • Oyster sauce is a thick, complex sauce with savory notes.
  • Hoisin and mirin can be great sweeteners.
  • Fish sauce delivers a funky, umami-rich intensity and adds depth to stir-fry dishes.
  • Ginger and garlic build aroma and depth of flavor.
  • Rice vinegar fulfills the acid component of stir-fry sauces, but lime and lemon can also be great acidic additions.
  • Sesame oil adds aroma and flavor and should be stored in your refrigerator to avoid becoming rancid.
  • Shaoxing wine is typically used for marinating meat and is also found in sauces; substitute with dry sherry.
  • Spicy ingredients such as red pepper flakes, fresh peppers (like Thai red chiles), sriracha, or Korean chile paste will all add some heat.
  • Cornstarch is used to thicken some sauces and helps the sauce stick to the meat and vegetables; substitute with arrowroot powder.
  • Garnishes brighten your stir-fry with herbs, sprouts, nuts, sesame seeds, scallion greens, pickled veggies, or fresh citrus. 

The Technique

Step 1: Preparation
The key to a successful stir-fry is to prepare all the ingredients before turning on the heat—once the heat is on, things move quickly. Have your ingredients chopped, meat marinated (unless using tofu), and your liquids measured before starting, and have all your tools and ingredients within arm’s reach so you can add things quickly.

Step 2: Season the Pan 
If using a wok or cast iron, you want to season it every time you cook. Heat the dry wok first until it is ripping hot, add 2–3 tablespoons of oil, and swirl and discard into a holding vessel. You can use this oil, again and again, each time you season your wok. Then you will add oil for cooking.

Step 3: Cook Aromatics First
Aromatics are used to flavor the oil. Cook them quickly, spoon them out of the pan, and set them aside. They can be added again at the end if desired.

Step 4: Cook the Veggies 
Add more oil to the wok, if needed, and cook veggies for 5–7 minutes, until hard veggies like carrots or broccoli are softened but still crisp. Add tender veggies like bok choy or bean sprouts to soften during the last minute of cooking. Remove the veggies from the pan and transfer them to a large bowl. 

Pro tip: Not all vegetables cook at the same rate, so do not overcrowd your pan. Cook in batches, so they don’t release too much liquid.

Step 5: Cook Proteins
Add more oil to the pan, and then add your protein. Cook until your protein is cooked through; the length of time will depend on the protein you are cooking.

If cooking tofu, you may need more oil; start with as much as 1/2 cup and add another 1/4 cup if your tofu sticks. Once golden, remove the tofu and drain on paper towels, and remove all but 3 tablespoons of oil before returning tofu to pan.

Step 6: Add Sauce 
Add liquid only after everything finishes cooking. Once the protein cooks through, add sauce to the pan, and heat through. Drizzle sauce down the sides of the pan with a ladle. If using tofu, simmer for several minutes in sauce before adding veggies.

López-Alt does note that “Asian stir-fries tend to be far drier than their Asian American counterparts, with just enough sauce to add flavor and a glossy sheen to meat or vegetables. Both styles can be delicious if done right.” So think of saucing as salting your food—ease into it, adding half of your sauce first and tasting to see if you want more. 

Pro tip: When adding soy sauce or other sauce mixture to a stir-fry, it’s best to avoid dumping it into the center so it doesn’t cool down the center of the wok, resulting in unwanted steam. 

Step 7: Pulling It Together
Add veggies and aromatics (optional) back to the stir-fry, and toss everything up. Add noodles, toss, and heat though. Taste and determine if you want to add back in the aromatics cooked in step 3. Garnish and serve.

The Recipes

Make-It-Your-Own Stir-Fry 

Serves 4
For a stir-fry that is meat and vegetables, use a ratio of 1:1 or 2:1. The 2:1 can go either way, depending on your preference and the dish. If using noodles or rice as a base, the starch teams up with your protein or stands on its own with the same ratio rules above. 

Example of 1:1 (protein and starch to veggies)

  • 2 cups meat or tofu
  • 4–6 cups veggies (6 cups if using leafy greens only)
  • 2 cups cooked rice or noodles
  • 1 cup stir-fry sauce

Example of 2:1 (veggies to protein)

  • 4–6 cups veggies (6 cups if using leafy greens only)
  • 2 cups meat or tofu
  • 1/2 cup stir-fry sauce

Example of 2:1 (veggies to starch)

  • 4–6 cups veggies (6 cups if using leafy greens only)
  • 2 cups cooked rice or noodles
  • 1/2 cup stir-fry sauce

Stir-Fry Recipes: Skirt Steak and Udon and Veggies and Rice Noodles