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Early Winter 2022: Canopy

Early Winter 2022: Canopy

In this issue, we learn from Annie Montes that mycorrhizal fungi are likely crucial to the survival and regeneration of thousands of acres of precious piñon forest, which shares its humble canopy and its seeds with diverse species—humans included. Ellen Zachos, reporting from the state mycological society’s annual foray in Taos, notes that the mushrooms so many New Mexicans have delighted in hunting this year, too, have dependent relationships with certain trees. Visiting a regenerative pecan farm in Mesquite, Shahid Mustafa digs into the mycelia of healthy soils. 

​​Our inspiration began, of course, with the seeds—the parts of the piñon and pecan that we so love to eat. Then we learned that another component of the tree can be of use not only as medicine but in the kitchen: fir needles! Ultimately, our tour of the forest grew further still,  encompassing the secretive underground networks so essential to its health and survival—in a word, fungi.

In this issue, we learn from Annie Montes that mycorrhizal fungi are likely crucial to the survival and regeneration of thousands of acres of precious piñon forest, which shares its humble canopy and its seeds with diverse species—humans included. Ellen Zachos, reporting from the state mycological society’s annual foray in Taos, notes that the mushrooms so many New Mexicans have delighted in hunting this year, too, have dependent relationships with certain trees. Visiting a regenerative pecan farm in Mesquite, Shahid Mustafa digs into the mycelia of healthy soils. 

So, as you tilt your glass back this holiday season, consider the intricacy of kinship, the hyphae that—both literally and figuratively—weave the canopy that feeds us. Whether you live downtown, in the badlands, or at the foot of Wheeler Peak, we hope these stories help you get to know (and taste) New Mexico’s forests a little better, and that, like a brisk walk in the woods, they refresh you and inspire something new.

Matt’s Mushroom Farm

Matt’s Mushroom Farm

Matt’s Mushroom Farm is the 2022 Local Hero for Farmer, Central New Mexico. An interview with founder Matt Gretton, who came to mycology by way of his twin passions for food justice and environmental conservation.

Iconik Coffee Roasters

Iconik Coffee Roasters

Iconik Coffee Roasters is the 2022 Local Hero for Café / Coffee Shop. Owner Sean Ham reflects on how he and his team make Iconik a special place for both Santa Feans and visitors to the City Different.

Growing the Soil of Southern New Mexico

Growing the Soil of Southern New Mexico

In our Early Winter edition of Faces of Food, Shahid Mustafa shares how pecan growers Josh Bowman and Wyatt Flory of Rio Gro LLC address the climate-related changes affecting their industry.

Piñon Shortbread

Piñon Shortbread

Santa Fe School of Cooking utilizes piñon in recipes ranging from nut butter to moles to the one of their most popular recipes, piñon shortbread.

Pecan Celebrations

Pecan Celebrations

This edition of Cooking Fresh is an ode to childhood pecan memories and provides make-ahead recipes for holiday get-togethers, ranging from classic snacks like Grandma’s Chex Mix to modern twists on festive appetizers, desserts, and cocktails.

M’tucci’s Shrubs

M’tucci’s Shrubs

M’Tucci’s shrubs, which started out as a small-batch experiment by M’Tucci’s Restaurants beverage director Austin Leard and are now available for purchase at their restaurants and a variety of local liquor stores.

Cauliflower Pecan Poppers

Cauliflower Pecan Poppers

These pecan-crusted poppers can be prepped ahead of time and then served hot and fresh out of the oven when your holiday guests arrive.

Grandma’s Chex Mix

Grandma’s Chex Mix

This classic comfort snack incorporates pecans, bagel chips, and other goodies that make for a satisfying crunch with every bite.

Maple Pecan-Crusted Bacon

Maple Pecan-Crusted Bacon

Bacon, maple syrup, pecans, and red chile—you might want to double this recipe, because your guests will devour it as soon as it hits the table.

Spiced or Spicy Pecans

Spiced or Spicy Pecans

An ode to childhood memories and an easy make-ahead recipe for holiday get-togethers, all you need to prepare this sweet and savory snack are pecans, maple syrup, and a handful of spices.

Flourless Pecan Cake

Flourless Pecan Cake

This flourless cake provides just the right amount of sweetness to finish a holiday party and is lovely paired with a cup of coffee or dessert wine.

Pecan Rosemary Dip

Pecan Rosemary Dip

A great make-ahead recipe for holiday get-togethers, this update on a classic dip features pecans, spinach, and an array of aromatics that make for a savory, tangy complement to chips or crudités.

Mad About Mushrooms

Mad About Mushrooms

Beauty, Flavor, and Science Converge on a Taos Foray By Ellen Zachos · Photos by Stephanie CameronHoney mushrooms on dead hardwood in a huge fungal flush. Hawk’s wing, club coral, lobster, velvet foot, puffball, hedgehog . . . these are names that make the mushroom...

The Seeds of the Trees

The Seeds of the Trees

In “The Seeds of the Trees,” Lynn Cline explores how the venerated Santa Fe School of Cooking utilizes the piñon in recipes ranging from nut butter to moles to the one of their most popular recipes, piñon shortbread.

Meet Fir

Meet Fir

Three simple recipes featuring fir needles, an ingredient that has long been valued for food, medicine, ceremony, and household uses.

Djuna Benjamin

Djuna Benjamin

Djuna Benjamin, assistant winemaker and distiller at Vara Winery & Distillery, is the recipient of the 2022 Local Hero Spotlight Award for Back of House. Benjamin, whom her employers call “a veritable powerhouse,” started at Vara as a server and then jumped at the opportunity to join the production team in 2021.

A Visit to Itality

A Visit to Itality

In this edition of Edible Artisan, Ungelbah Dávila-Shivers visits with Tina Archuleta, the owner and creator of Itality Plant Based Foods, who shares the inspiration behind her new restaurant in Albuquerque’s Avanyu Plaza.

The Secrets of Piñon

The Secrets of Piñon

In “The Secrets of Piñon,” Annie Montes considers the fate of a tree that holds significant cultural, economic, and ecological importance in the Land of Enchantment.

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