Local Hero: Restaurant, Santa Fe
An Interview with Marja Martin, Owner and General Manager, and Nathan Mayes, Executive Chef
Photos by Stephanie Cameron
Left: Mushroom Sopecitos with almond salsa. Right: Tuna Tostaditos with salsa macha and crispy scallions.
“We are not a fine dining restaurant. Neither are we a taco truck. I like to think we reside right in the middle of these two genres, which creates a sweet spot unique to Santa Fe,” says Paloma’s owner and general manager Marja Martin. “Our menu is inspired by our great love of Mexican cuisine, culture, and hospitality.” Entering their seventh year, Paloma features a simple menu serving fresh, lively dishes that use as many local ingredients as possible. Their beverage program focuses on quality agave spirits that are produced traditionally and as sustainably as possible. Almost every component of its dining room, from wallpaper to metal planters, is the work of local artists, craftspeople, and fabricators. Paloma honors the vibrant, diverse food culture of Mexico in an artfully designed space.
Santa Fe’s restaurant scene offers cuisines from all over the world, as well as an abundance of spins on Mexican and New Mexican cooking. Why choose to offer Mexican-inspired here, and what does that mean to you?
Mayes: New Mexico is just that, a landscape inspired and influenced by the history and culture of Mexico. I am inspired by the agricultural components woven through the community of greater New Mexico. The chiles, the maize, and the flavor profiles are ingrained into the identity of the state. There is such a rich culinary history that links New Mexico to Mexico, so inspiration is everywhere.
How do you decide whether or not to source something locally? What are some of the considerations involved in sourcing staples like corn versus local or seasonal ingredients?
Mayes: The simple rule is that if it is local, we will use it in place of any bulk ingredient from California, Arizona, or Mexico. During the winter, we maintain a steady supply of potatoes, radishes, lettuces, root veggies, black beans, and whole pigs. I always say our menu tastes the best in mid-August, when our peppers, tomatoes, and summer veggies are all local and bursting with flavor. We usually change to our warmer weather menu in May and slowly fill in the local ingredients. This way we can build a menu and slip in the local items once they are abundant—for example, our Squash Blossom Quesadilla with blossoms from Jason Klemmer, our Tres Leches with stone fruit from Freshies, and our Mixta Salad that becomes a market bounty in the warmer months.
How does Paloma support the preservation of New Mexico’s agricultural traditions, and why is that important to you?
Mayes: I think the best way to support agricultural traditions is to purchase as much from small farms as possible. It not only feels good to contribute to a small business (like our own), but ten out of ten times, the product tastes and looks better. It’s a way to have a conversation with the cooks and the guests who dine with us. It is a delicious way to explore the history as well as the future of farming and food in New Mexico.
What are some of your favorite vegetarian or vegan dishes? How do you see tastes changing as far as meat consumption?
Mayes: Cooking and eating plants has always been second nature to me. My father was the chef and owner of one of the first vegetarian restaurants in Austin, Mother’s Cafe, and my parents raised my siblings and me on a mostly plant-based diet; beans were the main source of protein, with some fish and shellfish every once in a while.
It has been cool to see more and more people turning to plants as a source of not only nutrition but flavor. At Paloma, our Cauliflower Rostizado is one of my favorites. We marinate and sous vide cauliflower before searing and roasting. Just like a piece of meat, we often baste the cauliflower with fat to finish cooking. We have also played with substituting vegetables in ceviche-style dishes such as our Beet and Melon Aguachile.
Your staff’s friendly vibe is a big part of the experience of dining at Paloma. How do you approach recruitment and retention at a time when restaurants are struggling to keep good people?
Martin: I am very proud of the staff retention we have in the front of house at Paloma. Many of my current staff worked through the pandemic with us; a few have been with us since 2017. Our beverage director, Andrea Duran, continues to amaze me with her creative, can-do attitude, problem-solving skills, willingness to research anything, and attention to detail. Both of my floor managers, Nicolás Garcia and Rita Goodrich, bring warmth, personal attention, and true love of hospitality to the floor.
I encourage my staff to be themselves and to have fun at work. For example, everyone gets to dress how they like, which I think contributes to the lively and artistic vibe at Paloma. We also share a family meal together every day prior to opening. Our staff being proud of and inspired by our food and drinks is truly the secret to our happy vibe.
Mayes: We have been fortunate to maintain a core group of people in the kitchen. While raising wages is a huge help, giving the staff a reason to come to work every day is equally effective. I call on kitchen staff all the time for their opinions and ideas for new dishes. I like to involve cooks in the process of breaking down whole animals and chatting with farmers when they drop off their produce. I’ve learned, and am still learning, that a sense of community and purpose is very important to keeping people motivated and able to take pride in their jobs.
What do you enjoy eating on your days off? Do you ever sample other local restaurants’ dishes, and if so, where do you like to go?
Martin: My mainstays are Bread Shop, Dolina, Horno, La Boca, and Joseph’s Culinary Pub. I also enjoy Altar Spirits and Palace Prime for creative cocktails and snacks. We are thinking a lot about what it means to be good neighbors and a supportive industry community. I love where we are located, so near to many of our favorites. I also love eating in Albuquerque, particularly Mesa Provisions and Oni. At least once a month, I plunge into very creative cooking at home with my friend Marijke Uleman of Cocoon. We have been playing with immersive single-ingredient dinners. Cooking in this way gives me a lot of opportunity for creative expression.
Anything else you’d like to share with edible readers?
We have a sister restaurant right next door that was founded on the same principles as Paloma. Using the freshest and highest-quality ingredients we can find, Esquina Pizza serves wood-fired pizza, creative salads, and a fresh rotation of wine and beer.
Marja Martin, Owner and General Manager, and Nathan Mayes, Executive Chef.
401 S Guadalupe, Santa Fe, palomasantafe.com
