Local Hero: Chef, Greater New Mexico
AN INTERVIEW WITH EXECUTIVE CHEF OF
DE LA TIERRA AT EL MONTE SAGRADO
Photos by Stephanie Cameron
Cristina Martinez, executive chef at De la Tierra at El Monte Sagrado.
Cristina Martinez’s passion for fine and comfort cuisine began with the rich foods of her New Mexican childhood. Inspired by European, French, and Asian influences, she honed her skills at Le Cordon Bleu, graduating with honors in 2006. Soon afterward, Martinez brought her talents back to the Land of Enchantment and held positions with Heritage Hotels and Resorts, Pueblo Harvest Café (now Indian Pueblo Kitchen), and The Artichoke Cafe, where she served as executive chef. She has won awards from several local competitions, including the Souper Bowl, Duke it Out (three years in a row!), Chef Knockout, the Taco Cookoff, and the 2019 Celebrity Pie Auction and Throwdown to benefit the Not Forgotten Outreach in Taos. She also supports local charities including Feast of Hope and Stray Hearts Animal Shelter. Martinez has been at El Monte Sagrado for seven years and is constantly learning and growing with the company. When we asked what her signature dish might be if she opened a food truck, she didn’t hesitate: “A bomb Philly cheesesteak.”
Describe your journey as a chef. What drew you to cook professionally? What obstacles have you encountered? Why Taos?
I have always known I had a taste for delicious, rich food ever since I can remember. It wasn’t until I was helping my mother with church events held at the house almost every weekend—I realized I had a passion for cooking while organizing these events with my mother. I truly loved the challenge of pleasing, and people loved the food. My brother passing away when I was nineteen set me on a journey to go to culinary school, and I decided to move to Los Angeles with my cousin who was on a similar journey going to film school. I had never moved away from home and, honestly, I needed to push myself to see what I could do on my own. I ended up being a leader in the kitchen and was drawn to that.
I have faced many obstacles in my career as a woman in the culinary industry. I have been pushed over the edge and taken advantage of, but these experiences have only made me stronger as a leader. I’m now more aware every day of the importance of psychology as a manager in a stressful environment. It takes a lot of care and it’s not just cooking anymore; there are so many pieces that I push myself to be better at.
I was working at The Artichoke Cafe, where I had a wonderful experience for many years, [when] Heritage contacted me through a friend working for them about an opportunity in Taos as chef at El Monte Sagrado.
I am incredibly grateful to Pat and Terry Keene for creating a supportive and encouraging workplace. I grew so much creatively there; I just felt a challenge and a change from Albuquerque was needed. There is this undeniable peace here in Taos, but I miss Albuquerque in many, many ways.
Left: Blistered shishito and watermelon salad with feta crema, smoked shoyu and prickly pear vinaigrette, and piñon. Right: Cornbread-crusted Hatch green chile relleno with smoked pulled pork and manchego-and-muenster mac and cheese.
Your menu draws from Mediterranean, Vietnamese, and French traditions, along with Mexican and New Mexican. What kind of food did you grow up eating? Was there a particular food experience that sparked your exploration of diverse cuisines?
I remember vividly everything good I ate as a child. I remember being blown away by La Crêpe Michel [one of Albuquerque’s longest-
standing French restaurants, closed since 2020] growing up, and the taste of rich cream and butter was just heaven; my mom and I ate out quite a bit, that was always the family love. One core memory that drew me to French food is going to EPCOT center when I was ten, and wanting to eat everything there because of being able to go to each little country—France blew my mind, cream and butter like I’ve never tasted. Constantly food obsessed.
Do you have a favorite ingredient? Where do you source it?
Vinegar makes almost everything better. I like to make it using leftover wines, I love to collect it.
What is your philosophy for running a kitchen? Can you talk about the dynamics of your team? Have you been impacted by the staffing shortages that so many restaurants are struggling with?
Teaching is essential for any chef to be successful. Chef Tony Nethery taught me that sharing recipes and techniques makes life easier and the world better. The more you spread your knowledge, the more people can see why things are done a certain way. Open and honest communication is vital in a kitchen, that’s just one way to make your staff feel appreciated and learn. Creating a great environment helps people thrive and want to do their best and work as a team. Everyone has an important role, so when it all clicks, it’s the best. Striving for perfection is what we all want, but it’s a real balance, like a family.
Staffing is always a challenge, but it is especially challenging in Taos, so I appreciate my staff dearly.
Seared ruby trout with forbidden kimchi fried rice, miso-carrot puree, oyster bok choy, and sake beurre blanc.
What (or who) have been three of your greatest influences?
My husband, my parents, and hardships.
Any advice for a young woman with dreams of becoming a chef?
I think this goes for anyone: Initiative and hard work is how you go really deep into it. Never stop learning, show interest, and immerse yourself in constant growth. Gain respect by not letting people walk all over you, but have kindness. Take care of yourself. Don’t be afraid to fail, but learn from it and always find solutions.
What is a local food issue that is important to you? Why?
Sustainability is always a culinary topic of importance. Northern New Mexico has such a rich and beautiful cultural history. Preserving and supporting traditional culinary practices and techniques by supporting recipes, crops, and local farmers helps to sustain and keep traditions alive. By supporting local initiatives, hopefully our vibrant history will not only stay alive but help the culture and environment thrive for the present and future.
Anything else you’d like to share with edible readers?
Adopt, don’t shop. Be kind and patient with people in food and beverage!
317 Kit Carson Rd, Taos, 855-846-8276, elmontesagrado.com/eat_drink/de-la-tierra
