Local Hero: Chef, Santa Fe
An Interview with Executive Chef and Partner at Radish & Rye
Photos by Stephanie Cameron
Left: Smoked baby back ribs with chipotle Carolina sauce and pickled cucumber, and a glass of Chartreuse. Right: Dru Ruebush.
Born in Deming and raised in Silver City, Dru Ruebush’s first restaurant job was as a server in New York. He was drawn to the kitchen, and picked up extra shifts doing prep and honing his knife skills. In 2012, he moved to Santa Fe, where he now lives with his wife, Camille Bremer, and their two bullmastiffs. Together, they opened Radish & Rye in 2015.
How would you characterize your relationship to food as a kid growing up in New Mexico?
Food has always been an integral part of my life, and something I’ve been passionate about as long as I can remember. I spent summers and weekends on my grandparents’ farm and developed a strong tie to the land and the business of agriculture. My parents encouraged me to begin cooking at a very young age, and by high school I was hosting dinners for friends and family.
You didn’t embark on a career as a professional chef until you were in your forties. How have your previous work experiences shaped your approach to running a kitchen?
All my previous work has influenced how I operate. My time in the arts taught me about holding yourself accountable for the quality of your work, and the commitment to excellence. Working with my dad in the appraisal business really solidified my business sense and level of integrity. Working in numerous restaurant settings taught me about people, and in turn, how I wanted to treat our staff, our guests, and our vendors. Being a chef takes tremendous organization, a passion for business, and commitment to excellence. Those are skills I spent years developing in other fields, and it’s working extremely well for me.
Describe what it takes to deeply commit to local agriculture as a chef right now.
It’s challenging, especially in Santa Fe with its short season. When I’m thinking of new dishes, my first thought is, “Does this fit our concept?” Then, “Can I source locally?” There are times of the year it’s nearly impossible to get any local produce. I have strong relationships with my vendors and we talk almost every week about what’s available or coming up.
Left: Grilled pork chop served with mushrooms, yellow corn polenta, and pickled fennel; duck fat fingerlings; grilled asparagus. Right: Grilled American bison served with seasonal salad and cider dijon vinaigrette.
Radish & Rye’s menu is farm-to-table fare with “a Southern sensibility.” Are there certain Southern dishes that seem particularly well suited for New Mexico’s ingredients?
My favorite thing we serve is our green chile corn bake. I took a family casserole recipe and created a Southern spoon bread that has some of the best flavors of New Mexico: Hatch green chile, Tamaya polenta, and Tucumcari sharp cheddar. My aim is to honor local ingredients, while letting that Southern sensibility inform my decisions.
Some restaurants reopened from COVID closures quickly, pivoting to carryout and outdoor seating; Radish & Rye stayed closed for a more extended period. What did you make with this forced time off? Who were you cooking for? How would you say that prolonged time away from the professional kitchen influenced you, as a chef or as a person?
Camille and I spent a lot of time and effort recommitting to our concept of casual elegance at the restaurant. We upgraded our dining room, our lounge, and the restrooms. We spent countless hours talking about what we wanted for our business and how we would make it happen. That time off was such a blessing for us as a couple. It gave us the opportunity to hone our mission and do things that we simply didn’t have time for before. It also allowed me to reconnect with my love for cooking. Having the time to cook dinner for us at home was something lost during those first five years, and that’s what fueled my desire in the first place.
Do you have a favorite summer meal?
There are foods I eat in the summer that I don’t eat any other time of year. Grilled corn, watermelon, ripe red tomatoes, and calabacitas. You can find all of those favorites anytime, but I’d rather hold out for when they are at their finest, and when nature intended us to eat them. And nothing reminds me of summer more than home-churned ice cream, especially a simple vanilla with tiny pieces of local peach.
Is there anything else you’d like to share with edible readers?
The restaurant business is a team sport, and without the hard work and support of Camille and our staff, none of this would be possible. Thank you so much to all who voted for me and continue to visit Radish & Rye. I’m eternally grateful.
505 Cerrillos, Santa Fe, 505-930-5325, radishandrye.com
