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Author: Edible Santa Fe

COOKING FRESH – Christmas redux

Christmas redux By Kate Manchester Every family has holiday traditions around food, mine is no exception. When I have guests visiting for the holidays, I will ask what singular food defines the holiday for them, and then – if it’s at all humanly possible, add it to the menu. Over the years I have made Japanese Christmas cakes, seafood feasts to make you weep, Indian Kul Kuls, and I cannot count the number of Buche de Noel. Holiday food is like that, there are certain foods that are oft only eaten at that time, and it just wouldn’t be the same without them. This is an assortment of recipes that define my holiday; some are old family recipes, some were memories dear to others that I have adopted. I’ve been making all of them long enough that they are now solidly a part of my Christmas feast, no question. While the main course may alternate from year to year, (turkey or pork this year?), there are certain things I cannot live without each Christmas, like my Gramma’s Parker House rolls, or Amanda Hesser’s decadent Bread Pudding on Christmas morning. Each bite recalls the warmth of holidays past, reassuring and comforting; each dish has its own story and place in the day. Like a cherished family member unable to make it home for the holidays, it wouldn’t be Christmas for...

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FROM GOOD EARTH FALL 2009

Farmer Monte’s Regional-Seasonal CSABy Deborah Madison It’s 94 degrees out, but when Monte Skarasgard emerges from the fields of Los Poblanos Organics the heat doesn’t seem to be slowing him down. Nor is much else. Monte runs this six-acre farm in Albuquerque’s north valley, plus a 16-acre farm in Isleta. Produce from both farms go to his 1800 CSA (Community Supported Agriculture) members. Most of the recipients live in Albuquerque, but Los Poblanos Organics, also known as LPO, also delivers boxes of good farm food to 80 members in Santa Fe, 120 in Los Alamos, and more in Las Cruces. Aside from its large size, what sets LPO apart from other New Mexican CSAs, is that, even in winter, the LPO boxes are filled with fruit and vegetables. Curious about how this CSA works, I spent a few hours with Monte under the shade of an apple tree where he talked about his vision for his unusual CSA. Monte grew up in Albuquerque, close to where he farms today. As a kid, he took care of his parents’ two acres. “Essentially, I learned about landscaping,” he says, “and to make money I got landscaping gigs in private homes. After a while I wanted to learn more about the botany, which I did at UC Santa Barbara. I learned through an old Japanese guy who had a private nursery; and...

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From the Vine Fall 2009

Hidden Treasures: Wineries of CorralesBy Michele Ostrove On my first visit to the village of Corrales (“on your way to everywhere,” says its brochure), I was surprised to discover that it’s a destination that could easily consume a leisurely weekend. Nestled between Rio Rancho and the Rio Grande River just west of Interstate 25, Corrales boasts nine charming B&Bs, seven restaurants, and a sprinkling of farm stands, artist studios, antique shops and historical sites. You can bike and bird-watch in the Corrales Bosque Preserve, hike in the nearby mountains or find a shady spot to kick back and do nothing at all. As I drove down Corrales Road, watching the afternoon sun illuminate the majestic Sandias, I was on a particular mission: to taste delicious wine. Corrales is home to two small-production wineries – Milagro Vineyards and Corrales Winery – and will soon add a third, the newly licensed Acequia Vineyards. But, aside from the loyal customers who make repeat visits to the tasting rooms (and Milagro’s limited retail and restaurant distribution), the Corrales wines are a well-kept secret. Going on the recommendation of a Santa Fe chef whose palate I trusted, I had fairly high expectations, but, with the first sip, I got my second surprise of the day. It begged the question: how did two retired New Mexico engineers become such talented winemakers? The answer: hard work...

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Buttermilk Biscuits

My Mom used to make Bisquick biscuits when we were kids – they were quick and delicious and a great last minute addition to round out a weeknight supper. I love them hot from the oven served alongside soup or a hearty stew, and if you add an extra tablespoon of sugar you can cover them with fresh strawberries or peaches and whipped cream for a quick dessert. Ingredients 2 C. all-purpose flour 1 T. double-acting baking powder 1 T. sugar 1 t. kosher salt ½ t. baking soda 4 T. cold butter, cubed 1½ C. buttermilk 2 T. butter, melted 9-inch round pie plate, greased. Preheat the oven to 450º. Place dry ingredients in the bowl of a food processor or standing mixer, and pulse to combine. Scatter the butter cubes over the dry ingredients, and pulse or mix until the mixture resembles coarse cornmeal. Add the buttermilk and mix until just incorporated. Use an ice cream scoop to scoop out the dough and drop into the pie plate to form 12 biscuits. The biscuits can be touching one another. Dust the tops of the dough pieces with some flour, then brush the tops with the melted butter. Bake until the biscuits are a deep golden brown, about 15 minutes. Serve hot with butter, butter and honey, or...

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Taking Stock

Stocks  aren’t just for soups, you can use them for everything from sauces and gravies, to flavor boosters in pasta dishes and stir frys. Stocks are easy to prepare as they don’t need a lot of attention, and great to have a few on hand in the freezer. When making stock a good rule of thumb is to have about half solid ingredients to half water.  Roasting your ingredients first will add a depth and richness to your stocks, but it’s not necessary. Add a tablespoon or so of whole black peppercorns, a tablespoon of kosher salt, and a bay leaf or two along with some fresh parsley. Cover your ingredients with the water, bring to a boil, reduce heat and let simmer for about an hour. Cool and strain. I like to freeze small amounts of stock in little baggies or an ice cube tray to use to boost a sauce or add flavor to dishes. Otherwise, I freeze in one or two quart containers to use for soups. Vegetable Stock I With a few exceptions, you can use all kinds of vegetables to make a veggie stock. Making vegetable stock is a great way to clean out the refrigerator and to use all those butt ends of veggies that might be relegated to compost. When I was in the professional food world, we used to keep a...

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