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Author: Edible Santa Fe

CULT OF TASTE

Our Very Own Gastronome: Gil’s Thrilling, (and Filling) BlogStory by Wolf Schneider He’s been approached by “Throwdown with Bobby Flay,” Guy Fieri’s “Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives,” “The Food Detective,” and other shows on the Food Network and Discovery Channel, all seeking his advice about New Mexico restaurants, most often of the roadhouse ilk. He gets about 120 emails a week from fans. By day, he works at Intel. By night, he is the brains behind nmgastronome.com. Gil Garduño (no relationship to the Garduño’s of Mexico Restaurant & Cantina chain) isn’t in the restaurant review business for the money. Would he even want to be a professional food critic? “It wouldn’t pay as well as Intel does, so probably not,” reasons the soft-spoken 51-year-old. He isn’t in it for the freebies. When upscale restaurants want to host him, “I usually say, I do have plans to visit your restaurant at some point, but if I go there, I’m certainly not going to announce myself and say, ‘I’m Gil, you need to treat me really well,’” shrugs Garduño. “Probably 90% of the restaurants we visit, I am completely and totally anonymous.” Garduño started his website, nmgastronome.com, in the late nineties. It has reviews of 57 restaurants in Santa Fe, 285 restaurants in Albuquerque, and a smattering of small-town New Mexico eateries. The reviews reveal when he last visited, his recommendations for...

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COOKING FRESH

Christmas redux By Kate Manchester Every family has holiday traditions around food, mine is no exception. When I have guests visiting for the holidays, I will ask what singular food defines the holiday for them, and then – if it’s at all humanly possible, add it to the menu. Over the years I have made Japanese Christmas cakes, seafood feasts to make you weep, Indian Kul Kuls, and I cannot count the number of Buche de Noel. Holiday food is like that, there are certain foods that are oft only eaten at that time, and it just wouldn’t be the same without them. This is an assortment of recipes that define my holiday; some are old family recipes, some were memories dear to others that I have adopted. I’ve been making all of them long enough that they are now solidly a part of my Christmas feast, no question. While the main course may alternate from year to year, (turkey or pork this year?), there are certain things I cannot live without each Christmas, like my Gramma’s Parker House rolls, or Amanda Hesser’s decadent Bread Pudding on Christmas morning. Each bite recalls the warmth of holidays past, reassuring and comforting; each dish has its own story and place in the day. Like a cherished family member unable to make it home for the holidays, it wouldn’t be Christmas for...

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COOKING FRESH WINTER 2009

Christmas redux By Kate Manchester Every family has holiday traditions around food, mine is no exception. When I have guests visiting for the holidays, I will ask what singular food defines the holiday for them, and then – if it’s at all humanly possible, add it to the menu. Over the years I have made Japanese Christmas cakes, seafood feasts to make you weep, Indian Kul Kuls, and I cannot count the number of Buche de Noel. Holiday food is like that, there are certain foods that are oft only eaten at that time, and it just wouldn’t be the same without them. This is an assortment of recipes that define my holiday; some are old family recipes, some were memories dear to others that I have adopted. I’ve been making all of them long enough that they are now solidly a part of my Christmas feast, no question. While the main course may alternate from year to year, (turkey or pork this year?), there are certain things I cannot live without each Christmas, like my Gramma’s Parker House rolls, or Amanda Hesser’s decadent Bread Pudding on Christmas morning. Each bite recalls the warmth of holidays past, reassuring and comforting; each dish has its own story and place in the day. Like a cherished family member unable to make it home for the holidays, it wouldn’t be Christmas for...

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COOKING FRESH – Christmas redux

Christmas redux By Kate Manchester Every family has holiday traditions around food, mine is no exception. When I have guests visiting for the holidays, I will ask what singular food defines the holiday for them, and then – if it’s at all humanly possible, add it to the menu. Over the years I have made Japanese Christmas cakes, seafood feasts to make you weep, Indian Kul Kuls, and I cannot count the number of Buche de Noel. Holiday food is like that, there are certain foods that are oft only eaten at that time, and it just wouldn’t be the same without them. This is an assortment of recipes that define my holiday; some are old family recipes, some were memories dear to others that I have adopted. I’ve been making all of them long enough that they are now solidly a part of my Christmas feast, no question. While the main course may alternate from year to year, (turkey or pork this year?), there are certain things I cannot live without each Christmas, like my Gramma’s Parker House rolls, or Amanda Hesser’s decadent Bread Pudding on Christmas morning. Each bite recalls the warmth of holidays past, reassuring and comforting; each dish has its own story and place in the day. Like a cherished family member unable to make it home for the holidays, it wouldn’t be Christmas for...

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FROM GOOD EARTH FALL 2009

Farmer Monte’s Regional-Seasonal CSABy Deborah Madison It’s 94 degrees out, but when Monte Skarasgard emerges from the fields of Los Poblanos Organics the heat doesn’t seem to be slowing him down. Nor is much else. Monte runs this six-acre farm in Albuquerque’s north valley, plus a 16-acre farm in Isleta. Produce from both farms go to his 1800 CSA (Community Supported Agriculture) members. Most of the recipients live in Albuquerque, but Los Poblanos Organics, also known as LPO, also delivers boxes of good farm food to 80 members in Santa Fe, 120 in Los Alamos, and more in Las Cruces. Aside from its large size, what sets LPO apart from other New Mexican CSAs, is that, even in winter, the LPO boxes are filled with fruit and vegetables. Curious about how this CSA works, I spent a few hours with Monte under the shade of an apple tree where he talked about his vision for his unusual CSA. Monte grew up in Albuquerque, close to where he farms today. As a kid, he took care of his parents’ two acres. “Essentially, I learned about landscaping,” he says, “and to make money I got landscaping gigs in private homes. After a while I wanted to learn more about the botany, which I did at UC Santa Barbara. I learned through an old Japanese guy who had a private nursery; and...

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